Ann Mah - food and travel writer | Ann Mah

Cheap eats around the Eiffel Tower

By Ann | October 21, 2014

la tour eiffel

I always feel like I’m the last person to find out things. So when I read an article about the Eiffel Tower’s two-year, thirty million Euro renovation—unveiled this month—I wasn’t surprised that I knew nothing about it, even though la Dame Fer is around the corner from my apartment. The renovation added solar panels (they heat the structure’s water) as well as a glass observation floor that allows visitors to gaze straight down—57 stories. Yowzers!

In honor of the tower’s new “looking,” I thought I’d share a few of my favorite cheap eats in the area. As I’ve mentioned before, the neighborhood has its share of tourist traps serving bad food. But there are also hidden gems. If you’re visiting the Eiffel Tower and on a budget, here are three great options for lunch:

sandwich grecque

The Cheapest:

I realize I am revealing my lowbrow palate by saying this, but when they’re fresh and hot, I really love a sandwich grecque. The sandwiches at Apollon—a Greek restaurant/traiteur—start with your choice of sauce (I always get harissa) dabbed on warmed pita. The guy behind the counter then stuffs the bread to bursting with seasoned chicken shaved off the spit, lettuce, tomato, and French fries. The result is greasy, salty, spicy and completely delicious. There’s also a vegetarian version, which replaces the meat with cheesy spinach-feta croquettes, equally salty, greasy, and delicious. (If you’re in the mood for lighter fare, the counter offers terrific Greek salad, hummus, and other dips.) A full menu (and table service) is available in the restaurant, but for the truly cheap experience, order your sandwich to take away.

Price: €5.50 (per sandwich)

cheese

The Cheap

Bread and cheese are France’s greatest cheap eats. Happily, one of my favorite fromageries is located a few blocks from the Eiffel Tower. Tucked away on a side street off the rue Cler, Marie-Anne Cantin is a small shop where everything is delicious. On a recent visit, I picked up a wedge of St-Nectaire fermier and a slice of vieux Comté. A handful of cherry tomatoes from one of the fruit sellers on rue Cler, and a bit of bread rounded out my picnic lunch, enjoyed on a sunny afternoon at the Champ de Mars. Note: this is a budget meal for two or more.

Price: €15 (two cheeses, baguette, and a handful of cherry tomatoes)

sapori di parma

menu

pizzoccheri

The Relatively Cheap

I know, I know—you probably didn’t come to Paris to eat Italian food. But for a hot, (relatively) cheap lunch, I love Sapori di Parma, an eccentric Italian restaurant/épicerie located a few blocks from the Eiffel Tower. The owner, an older Italian gentleman, communicates in a hybrid of Italian and French, flinging scraps of mortadella into the mouths of babies, and describing his favorite dishes with great gusto. He convinced me to try the pizzoccheri Valtellina: housemade buckwheat pasta tossed with potatoes, braised chard, and melted cheese into a rib-sticking winter dish. Though I splashed out on the more expensive lunch menu—€14.80 for a plate of charcuterie, the aforementioned pasta, wine, and coffee—for the truly budget conscious, there’s a simple, two-course prix fixe for €11.80 (entrée + plat + café, or plat + dessert + café). You can also buy Italian charcuterie and cheese to take away.

Price: €14.80 (entrée, plat, glass of wine, and coffee)

Apollon
24 rue Jean Nicot, 7e
tel: 01 45 55 68 47

Marie-Anne Cantin
12 rue du Champ de Mars, 7e
tel: 01 45 50 43 94

Sapori di Parma (no website)
58 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, 7e
tel: 01 45 56 19 38

Topics: Dining Out and About, Paris | 9 Comments »

Pittsburgh book event

By Ann | October 17, 2014

book signing

I’m so excited about the paperback of Mastering the Art of French Eating, which hits bookstores October 28! I just received my advance copies and they’re gorgeous—I can’t wait to share the new edition with you all.

To celebrate the paperback launch, I’m visiting the Penguin Bookshop—Pittsburgh’s awesome independent bookstore, located in Sewickley, Pennsylvania—for a special book event. The evening will include wine and nibbles, as well as a talk on French cuisine by yours truly. The Penguin is one of my favorite indies and if you’re in the area, I would be thrilled to meet you!

Here are the details:

When: Wednesday, November 5, 6pm

Where: Penguin Bookshop (417 1/2 Beaver Street, Sewickley, PA)

What: Books, bites, booze (wine), and a talk about French cuisine. Tickets are $5, or $20 (with book) and can be purchased at the Penguin. A signed book makes an excellent holiday gift! :)

For more info, click here.

Hope to see you there!

Topics: Mastering the Art of French Eating | 10 Comments »

Eggplant: To salt or not to salt?

By Ann | October 8, 2014

eggplants

I recently got into a discussion online about salting eggplant. Do you salt yours? I usually do not because I like to: A) avoid excess salt, and B) avoid extra steps in the kitchen. But the other people participating in this discussion indicated that I was wrong, very wrong.

Curious about whether salting eggplant is really worth it, I decided to reach out to some of the best home cooks I know—fellow bloggers and food writers—to find out whether they salt eggplant, why or why not. Here’s what they said…

From those who DO salt:

Maria Speck, author of Ancient Grains, Modern Meals: “I was raised by a Greek mom who wouldn’t dream of not salting her eggplant. But I wasn’t sure seeing so much conflicting advice. In fact, I’ve asked myself this question for years and after trying it out to learn for myself, I strongly recommend it. In my next cookbook Simply Ancient Grains (out in April 2015), I write: ‘Salting alters the texture of the fruit to make the flesh more supple and mouth-watering. I always find it worth my time. Compare it for yourself.'”

Camille Malmquist, blogger at Croque Camille and pastry chef at Frenchie To Go: “Yes, in theory, to draw off the bitter juices. It drains some of the water out, for faster browning once the eggplant hits the pan, and it’s usually not a big deal to cut up my eggplant first, salt it, and then leave it to drain while I do other mise en place.”

From those who DO NOT salt:

John Baxter, author of The Perfect Meal and Paris at the End of the World: “Having tried it both ways, I couldn’t detect much difference. Salting produced a few spoonsful of vinegary liquid, but the taste seemed the same. I had thought it might make the plant less inclined to absorb oil, a major advantage in cooking moussaka, but there was no appreciable change there either—unlike, say, cucumber, where salting and draining produces a quite different texture.”

Heather Robinson, blogger at Lost in Arles: “If your eggplant is young and fresh, it shouldn’t be bitter after it is cooked properly. And, as you are hopefully cooking it immediately after preparing it—as you should, because why let it oxidize?—there is no need to salt to ‘get rid of’ any extra liquid. And who needs extra salt no matter how carefully you get rid of it after?”

Rachel Roddy, blogger at Rachel Eats and author of Five Quarters (forthcoming June 2015): “As an Elizabeth David and Jane Grigson devotee, I salted for years. But I generally don’t anymore, especially with the rather nice, neat, almost sweet and creamy aubergines we get in Rome. If the aubergine look a little wilder, bolder and possibly bitter (like those from Sicily) I might well give them a salt. Very big aubergines, which I generally avoid, which might be watery, I might salt. I don’t even salt for parmigiana now, as I fry the slices in so much oil that water just evaporates away.”

Meg Bortin, blogger at The Everyday French Chef and author of Desperate to be a Housewife: “I never salt eggplant—I find it’s a bother and serves no purpose. On the other hand, I very rarely fry eggplant in oil, so over-absorption of oil is not a problem.”

Amelia Crook, blogger at Simple Provisions: “If the eggplant and fresh and lovely, particularly if I’ve picked it from my garden, then I don’t bother salting.”

Wini Moranville, author of The Bonne Femme Cookbook: “No! I don’t salt eggplant. Supposedly, salting makes the eggplant less bitter (I’ve never found my locally grown eggplants to be bitter) and it also keeps the eggplant from absorbing too much oil. Frankly, when I’m making something with eggplant—especially ratatouille—the flavor of the olive oil is a big part of what makes it so good. Certainly, I don’t want it greasy, but if it absorbs a little olive oil, that’s part of the point!”

And from those in between:

Jill Colonna, author of Mad About Macarons: “I find with the time eggplant takes to prepare, Picard [French frozen food chain] do the most amazing aubergine slices that have been prepared previously on a grill. So I just defrost them and use them directly without any oil for making a moussaka (the rest is homemade!) or parmesan aubergine bake.  I’m a real lazy gourmet ;-)  That gives me more time to make dessert.”

Shannon Faris, blogger at The Misanthropic Hostess: “I don’t cook with
eggplant at ALL. The stuff scares me to death. Numerous times I’ve
parlayed with the aubergine enigma, starting with visions of silky, smokey
results to get fishy mush in return. I love eggplant… just not when I make it. Even simple grilled eggplant is fabulous—as long as it doesn’t come from our grill.” 

eggplant

After reading these thoughts, I decided to conduct my own Eggplant Taste Test. I bought two old eggplants from the Farmers Market and one young eggplant from my local grocery store. (It was supposed to be the other way around, but the aubergine at D’Agostino was fresher than at the Union Square Green Market—go figure.) I cubed the fruit and and roasted it in four batches:

1) Young and unsalted.
2) Old and unsalted.
3) Young and salted.
4) Old and salted.

eggplant taste test

And the result was…

They all tasted the same. The texture, too, was the same. Maybe Batch #3 (young and salted) was a bit more bitter than the rest—but that disproves every theory.

I used my roasted eggplant cubes to make this shortcut moussaka recipe from the New York Times. It was easy and delicious, but next time I’ll be able to whip it up even faster :)

Do you salt eggplant?

Topics: Uncategorized | 17 Comments »

Chicken pot pie with parsley biscuits

By Ann | September 30, 2014

chicken pot pie with parsley biscuits

People are funny with their food preferences, aren’t they? Like my friend, Heather, who thinks leftover roast chicken tastes metallic—she can only eat it in a sauce. (After she mentioned it, I noticed it too.)  My husband strongly prefers white meat (though he’ll eat the other stuff if it’s hidden in a sauce). Then there’s my friend, Steve, who doesn’t really like sauce at all. I’m guilty, too—I’ll eat offal like liver or giblets, but won’t touch brains or tripe. I like soup hot enough to blister the roof of my mouth. And I also favor chicken breast over thighs. Eek! Do I have to forfeit my food lover credentials?

chicken stew

Anyway, all this to say that I’m always looking for ways to use up those unloved bits of roast chicken. Soup is a good bet (like this spicy lentil Mulligatawny). So is chicken pot pie. I made one last weekend, cramming three kinds of vegetables—mushrooms, asparagus, and peas—into a velouté sauce, along with cubed roast chicken.

parsley biscuit dough

prebaked chicken pie

I topped the stew with a batch of quick biscuits, moistening the dough with yogurt instead of buttermilk, and adding a handful of chopped parsley that I found wilting at the bottom of the fridge. The yogurt made the biscuits slightly tangy, all fluffy interior and crisp top. But if you’re Team Pastry, go ahead and unfurl a sheet of pâte brisée on top, or even the frozen puff variety from your friendly neighborhood supermarket.

chicken pot pie with parsley biscuits

Besides being soothing enough to engender world peace, chicken pot pie has two other positive qualities: 1) You can make the stew ahead of time and freeze it. Just defrost and top with store-bought pastry for an easy meal. 2) Small, discerning babies (like my own) enjoy it and don’t even know they’re eating so many vegetables. Win, win, win!

Chicken pot pie with parsley biscuits

Serves four

For the chicken stew:
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2/3 cup flour
1/4 cup cream sherry (optional)
5 cups chicken broth
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 lb white button mushrooms, diced
1 lb asparagus, ends snapped off, and cut into 1-inch segments
3/4 cup frozen peas
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
4 cups roast chicken, diced
Salt and pepper

Parsley yogurt biscuits
1 1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup chopped parsley
2 oz cold butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3/4 cup buttermilk, or yogurt (NOT Greek-style, or strained)

Preheat the oven to 425ºF.

In a large pot, heat the butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the flour and cook over low heat for 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the sherry (if using) and allow the alcohol to evaporate. Add the chicken broth and simmer, stirring often, until the sauce is thick.

Meanwhile, warm the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a sauté pan. Add the onion and sauté until fragrant. Add the mushrooms, asparagus, peas, and dried thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

Stir the vegetables into the sauce, along with the chicken. Taste and adjust seasonings. Place the stew in a 9″ x 13″ ceramic baking dish. (Alternatively, you can pause here and refrigerate or freeze the stew until you’re ready to use it. Just make sure to reheat it before continuing; see note below.*)

Make the biscuits. Stir together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and parsley. Blend in the butter with your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the yogurt and stir with a fork until the dough comes together—it will be sticky, with bits of flour on the side of the bowl. I like to knead the dough a couple of times in the bowl to bring everything together.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using gentle, floured fingertips, pat the dough into an 8-inch x 10-inch rectangle, about 1-inch thick. Cut the dough into 2 to 3-inch squares (or use the rim of a 2-inch juice glass). Arrange the biscuits on top of the stew. Bake for 15-20 minutes until the biscuits are golden and the stew is bubbly around the sides.

*Make-ahead note: Before topping with biscuits, be sure to reheat the stew. You could pop it in the hot oven for 25 minutes. Or use the microwave (as I do :)

Topics: Recettes | 11 Comments »

Tuesday dinner with Samantha Vérant + giveaway!

By Ann | September 23, 2014

shrimp with pastis

It’s Tuesday and according Samantha Vérant it’s the perfect night to set your stove on fire! She’s burning up the kitchen with her fresh and healthy recipe for shrimp flambéed in Pastis.

Samantha is an American living in Toulouse with her husband, Jean-Luc, and two step-children—and the author of a new book, Seven Letters from Paris. If you love stories about falling in love (with a Frenchman!), you’ll love her heartfelt memoir. “A real-life fairy tale. You’ll be rooting for this bubbly American heroine and her prince charmant,” says Elizabeth Bard, author of Lunch in Paris. I can’t wait to read it! Today, I’m delighted to share Samantha’s tale of cooking misadventures and her recipe for anise shrimp and mango-avocado salsa. (AND, I’m giving away a copy of her book! Find details at the bottom of this post.)

SevenLettersFromParis_full

samantha vérant

photo from samantha vérant mango

Fiery Tuesday Nights
by Samantha Vérant

Four years ago, I married a Frenchman, moved to southwestern France, and became an instant stepmother to two tween-aged children. New country, new language, and new life aside, one of the biggest challenges I faced was cooking for a French family. While most of the meals we ate are typical in any household, like spaghetti with meat sauce or fajitas, my family was used to eating quite a few French meals—recipes I’d never attempted. I experimented a lot, even tried to broaden the menu, figuring if my family was open to escargot in a buttery, parsley infused garlic sauce, surely, an American classic—tuna noodle casserole—wouldn’t cause a war. Big mistake.

You live. And you learn. I had to get with the program. Stat.

Thankfully, my husband, Jean-Luc, loves to cook and made for an excellent teacher. I was slowly inducted into the finer points of quiche making and introduced to all of the “ettes”—raclettestartiflettes, and galettes—my current go-to meals depending on the season. As my confidence in my French kitchen grew, I became more courageous, trying my hand at everything from bouef bourguignon to civet de sanglier and lapin à la moutarde. Still, I was a bit wary of flammable dishes, acting as sous chef and leaving Jean-Luc to light the match.

Ermagad! I’m going to set the house on fire, or singe my eyebrows off, or…or…

But I’m an American woman and I wasn’t about to let a little heat scare me out of my own kitchen. I went through so many adjustments; I knew a little flambé wasn’t going to kill me. Really, the only scarier than a little fire was the expression on the kids’ faces when I slopped the tuna noodle casserole on their plates.

I’ll give credit when credit is due. The shrimp recipe is Jean-Luc’s. The add-ons, alternatives, and sides are mine. Here’s where Franco-American fusion meld together to create a delicious (and quick) meal. The bonus? It’s worthy of a dinner party. Because you never know who will be coming over on a Tuesday night.

Shrimp flambéed in Pastis with mango avocado salsa and sticky rice
Adapted from Samantha Vérant

Serves four

Note from Ann: I love Pastis as an apéro (in Provence, in the summer, with a bowl of olives) but I was initially dubious about this recipe. Would anise-flavored liqueur match well with the prawns? Turns out, the boozy licorice sweetness is a beautiful counterpoint to the shrimp. “Can’t get your hands on Pastis?” says Samantha. “No worries. One of things I’ve learned while living in France is how to a substitute an ingredient. There is always a solution.” She suggests Tequila or Cognac—and I actually used absinthe, which, at 110 proof, produced EXCITING flames! Though this recipe involves a considerable amount of chopping—which makes it not quite a quick meal—I found it healthy and satisfying, with unusual flavors—totally worth the extra effort.

For the shrimp:
1 tablespoon olive oil
3-4 cloves garlic, minced
5 small shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped (optional)
1/4 cup parsley leaves, chopped
2 lbs unshelled shrimp
1/4 cup Pastis (or Cognac or Tequila)
Salt and pepper

For the mango avocado salsa:
2 avocados, diced
2 tomatoes, diced
1/4 red onion, finely chopped
1 mango, diced
Small handful of parsley, finely chopped
1/2 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced (optional)
1 lime, juiced
Pepper (to taste)

To serve: Sticky rice, basmati, or brown rice, cooked according to package instructions.

Prepare the mango-avocado salsa: Combine the ingredients in a bowl, taste and adjust seasoning.

In a sauté pan, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, shallots, and ginger, cooking until softened and fragrant. Stir in the shrimp, cooking until they begin to turn pink. Add the chopped parsley. Remove the pan from the heat and turn off the burner. Add the Pastis and light it with a match. (“I recommend a ponytail if you have long hair!” says Samantha) Shake the pan gently, tossing the shrimp. Once the flame has settled down (if it doesn’t, snuff it out with the cover of large pot), return the pan to low heat. Cook until the shrimp are firm and pink, about one to two minutes. At this point, I removed the shrimp added a splash of water, and reduced the liquid, just to make sure my 110-proof booze had completely evaporated :) Return the shrimp to the pan, taste and adjust seasonings.

Plating Instructions:
“For a lovely (and very colorful) presentation,” says Samantha, “take a small ramekin, a 1/2-cup measuring cup, or a “circle” tool and tightly pack it with rice. Place your chosen tool on the corner of a plate and tap the top with a wooden spoon, then lift. The rice should be in a tight, well shaped form. Plate the shrimp and garnish the whole dish with the mango slaw. Serve with wedges of lime.”

absinthe

la fée verte

prawns with pastis and mango avocado salsa

*Seven Letters from Paris by Samantha Vérant Giveaway!*
Samantha is giving away a signed copy of her book to one of you lucky readers!
To enter:
1. Leave a comment below with your favorite romantic city.
2. For an extra entry, follow Samantha on Twitter (@samantha_verant) then leave a separate comment to let me know.
3. For an extra, extra entry, tweet the following and leave a comment to let me know: I’m entered to win Seven Letters from Paris by @Samantha_Verant from @AnnMahNet. More info: www.annmah.net

The contest ends September 29. A winner will be selected at random and announced here. Good luck!

For more about Samantha, visit her blog, Twitter, and Facebook!

(Non-food photos from Samantha Vérant.)

UPDATE: The winner is Denise! Thanks for playing, tout le monde.

Topics: Tuesday dinner | 44 Comments »

David Lebovitz’s My Paris Kitchen

By Ann | September 17, 2014

david lebovitz's lentil salad

I think people can be divided into two categories: lunch buyers and lunch bringers. I used to be the former but New York City (and paying for childcare) have turned me into the latter. Every Sunday, I make something to eat during the week—sometimes a quiche, but more often a hearty bean salad. I used to find those sorts of recipes soooo time consuming—all that mincing, zesting, and grating, not to mention the herb washing, drying, and plucking—so many elements to prepare—but if I don’t get distracted by shiny things like my iPad, I can finish in ninety minutes, dishes washed and counters wiped. (Honestly, now that I’ve typed that sentence, I’ve realized that ninety minutes is, in fact, a long time—but I listen to NPR at the same time so it’s kind of meditative? Maybe?)

My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz

Anyway, making a weekly bean/grain salad means I’m always on the lookout for new bean/grain salad recipes because a girl can only eat so many cumin-dusted chick peas. Last week, I was delighted to scarf down a French lentil salad with feta cheese and pecans from David Lebovitz’s beautiful new cookbook, My Paris Kitchen.

puy lentils

The recipe reads like a tour of my pantry: French green lentils (smuggled from Paris), thyme, red wine vinegar, toasted pecans. I had a bunch of cilantro wilting in the fridge, which I used instead of parsley, and crumbled in a block of feta, as suggested. The result was a satisfying meal—nourrissant, as my French friend, Jérôme, might say—rich with nuts and the salty tang of feta.

I’m guessing David probably doesn’t share my lunch mania, but his new book is a treasure trove of brown bag ideas. I can’t wait to make sandwiches from his beet hummus. There’s poireaux vinaigrette, the leeks scattered with bacon and hard-boiled eggs. A quiche of ham, blue cheese, and pear. Roasted cauliflower dusted with dukkah, an Egyptian spiced nut mix (which I’d combine with quinoa, maybe). Israeli couscous tossed with pistachios and preserved lemon (add a can of chick peas and call it a meal). Wheat berry salad with roasted root vegetables and pomegranate vinaigrette. Many of these recipes come from the section titled “Sides” but all of them have enough star power for a hungry luncher.

The book also has Paris stories, cooking tips, and witty observations sprinkled throughout, not to mention recipes for meatier main dishes. The desserts are spectacular, featuring the sophisticated flavors you’d expect from David’s Chez Panisse pastry chef past, while easy enough for a nervous baker (like me) to tackle. The book echoes David’s food blog (which—in case you’ve been living under a rock and haven’t heard of it—is wildly popular), but with MORE—more photos, more funny stories, more recipes. Indeed, this book an invitation into David’s kitchen… and how wonderful it is to find it as warm and delicious and creative a place as one always hoped.

gratin aux pdt

I’ll leave you with a glimpse of the book’s most decadent side dish, a gratin of potatoes speckled with blue cheese and roasted garlic. We made short work of it for dinner one night, paired with a butcher-roasted chicken. It was heaven; even the baby loved it. My version of the lentil salad recipe is below, but to make the potatoes, you’ll have to buy the book :) You won’t regret it.

david lebovitz's lentil salad

French lentil salad with feta cheese and nuts
Adapted from My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz

Serves four to six

250 grams French green lentils (Puy variety)
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 carrot, peeled and finely diced
1 small red onion, peeled and finely diced
1 celery stalk, finely diced
Large handful cilantro leaves, chopped
1 cup toasted pecans or walnuts, chopped
1 cup crumbled feta cheese

Vinaigrette:
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/3 cup olive oil or walnut oil (or combination of the two)
1 small shallot, peeled and minced

Salt and pepper

Rinse the lentils and place them in a saucepan. Cover with water by 1 inch, add the bay leaf and thyme. Bring to a boil, then decrease to a simmer, cooking for 15 minutes. Add the vegetables and continue to cook until the lentils are tender, splash in a dash of hot water if things look dry. (David’s recipe says 5 to 10 minutes, but mine took 20. Test regularly.)

Make the vinaigrette in a large bowl (use the one you’ll dress the salad in). Stir together the vinegar, mustard, oil, and shallot. Season lightly.

Drain the lentils thoroughly. While they’re still warm, stir them into the vinaigrette— they’ll soak up all the delicious dressing. Add the cilantro, nuts, and feta cheese. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Topics: Cooking the Books, Recettes | 18 Comments »

My trip to Wisconsin

By Ann | September 10, 2014

raspberry farm

Driving from the airport through Madison, Wisconsin, I kept saying: “Look, it’s the Midwest! It’s the heartland! It’s Big Sky country!” I wasn’t talking to myself—though that seems to be happening more and more—but rather to my stalwart travel companion: Lucy, age one.

Though I like to think I’m a fairly seasoned traveler, I’m definitely not experienced at traveling with a baby. But when I was invited to present my book at UW Madison’s Maison Française, I decided to bring my daughter on a Mama-Lucy adventure. We stayed with friends who have twins of about the same age and explored Madison in two-hour chunks squeezed in between naps. Here are my suggestions:

baby toys

Pack appropriate baby toys. Keys, wallet, passport—all suitable for a one year old, n’est-ce pas? :) Seriously, when I posted this photo on Instagram, someone left a comment saying that airports should offer a play area at the gate. I couldn’t agree more!

wisconsin sweet corn

Be patient at the farmers market. On summer Saturdays, the Dane County Farmers’ Market circles the State Capitol building. Pedestrian traffic flows in one direction (clockwise) and it moves slowly, especially for this impatient New Yorker. This is the largest producer-only farmers’ market in the States and it’s worth a meander (you won’t be able to move much faster than that). My favorite purchases were bratwurst sausages, cheese curds (they squeak against your teeth—Lucy loved ‘em), and Yukon gold potatoes with such a rich, earthy flavor that I felt like I was eating real potatoes for the first time in my life. Runner up: Wisconsin corn, sweet and juicy.

wisconsin brats

Find a grill. It’s the best way to cook those local brats. The skin gets snappy, crisp and smoky, the interior juicy and succulent, salty with a peppery punch. We enjoyed them on buns, with grilled onions and a dab of mustard.

cheese curds

Play with cheese curds. After we sampled them and fed them to the babies, we still had the better part of a bag. I made a potato gratin with the rest, layering potato slices with grated curds and cream. It was heavenly. (And good for you! ;) Funnily enough, even when grated, melted and combined with starchy potatoes, the curds still squeak against your teeth, a sensation that’s not entirely unpleasant.

metcalfe's

Meat up at Metcalfe’s. This family-owned supermarket chain features loads of local products including Neuske’s bacon and an entire aisle of hot dogs (photo above). Lucy’s favorite part was riding in the shopping cart (the very first time for my city girl :)

UW Madison maison francaise

Find fellow Francophiles. UW Madison’s Maison Française—which hosted my book event—was so cozy and welcoming, I was tempted to curl up on the living room sofa and watch films of the Nouvelle Vague. Students sign a language pledge to live here, and all conversation takes place en français. But here’s the best part: On Wednesdays and Fridays, the dining room is open to the public for French conversation à table over lunch or dinner! (Seriously, if I lived in Madison, I would be a regular.)

wisconsin raspberry farm

wisconsin berrying

Sunday (or any sunny day) is for raspberries. I’d never been berrying before, and found it amazingly satisfying, reaching between the thorny stems to pluck the softest, sweetest, most unblemished raspberries I’d ever seen. Every few minutes, a plump little hand crept into my pint box and helped itself. Sutter’s Ridge Farm also had U-pick apples, a couple of friendly goats, and a rather eclectic kitten shed.

graze madison wi

Eat downtown. Madison has so many great restaurants, though I was limited to baby friendly territory. We enjoyed a lunch of grilled cheese and Mexican corn chowder at Graze (very kid friendly, in case you’re wondering :) Next time I want to try Marigold Kitchen. If you’re in the mood for drinks and porky bar snacks, I recommend the spiced nuts and candied bacon at Heritage Tavern.

hooks cheddar

Shop for cheese. Wisconsin produces so many different types of cheese—during my brief visit, I sampled Alsatian-style Muenster, brebis, chèvre, cheddar, and burrata—all locally made. The variety reminded of France, except it was better because Wisconsin cheesemakers aren’t limited by tradition—the sky’s the limit! Fromagination, in downtown Madison, is a wonderful place to shop for cheese, with knowledgeable staff who are generous with samples. Hook’s twelve-year cheddar was nutty and tangy. I had to buy a wedge to bring home.

(Photo of me and Lucy by Heather Willis Allen.)

Topics: Voyages | 15 Comments »

Madison, Wisconsin book signing

By Ann | September 2, 2014

mastering the art of french eating

Salut, friends!

C’est la rentrée et je suis de retour!

This week, I’m so excited to travel to Madison, Wisconsin for a book event at the University of Wisconsin’s Maison Française! The event is free and open to the public (and there will be wine and cheese!). If you’re in Madison, I hope you’ll join us! I would love to meet you.

Here are the details:

When: Friday, September 5, 2014, 3pm

Where: UW-Madison French House (633 N. Frances St., Madison, WI)

What: Book talk and signing

Books will be for sale thanks to the University Book Store.

For more info visit the website of la Maison Française.

Stay tuned for an announcement about more fall events, in honor of the book’s paperback edition—it comes out on October 28!

Topics: Appearances, Mastering the Art of French Eating | 10 Comments »

Anne’s Prince Edward Island

By Ann | August 22, 2014

dunelands pei

In May, I visited Prince Edward Island to research a travel story on Anne of Green Gables (which appears in this Sunday’s New York Times). I know, I say this every time, but this was one of my favorite pieces to report and write. As a lifelong fan of Anne-with-an-e,  the entire experience was a joy. The photos that illustrate the article are stunning, but I thought I’d share a few snapshots from my travels with Anne Shirley…

The Dunelands trail (photo above), part of the Prince Edward Island National Park, edges a magnificent rock and sand shore. She doesn’t mention it in Anne of Green Gables, but Maud—as L.M. Montgomery was known—often walked here. “To my left extended the shining curve of the sandshore; on on my right were rugged rocks with little coves, where the waves swished on the pebbles,” she wrote in her journals. “I could have lingered there for hours and watched the sea with the gulls soaring over it.”

green gables pei

green gables

anne's room green gables pei

Green Gables looked so exactly as I’d pictured it, I almost burst into tears. I went through the house twice and on my second visit I was alone (it was lunchtime), just me and a couple of Parks Canada staff. I felt like I’d actually stepped into the pages of the book.

haunted wood pei

Here’s the Haunted Wood—and you can see the 18-hole golf course that surrounds it, too.

plowed fields pei

french river pei

view of french river pei

As I ventured further and further from Cavendish, everywhere I looked I caught glimpses of Maud’s island of “ruby, and emerald, and sapphire.”

dandeion field pei

My late May visit allowed me to see the island in its spring glory. “The young leaves are such a bright, tender green,” wrote Maud in her journals. “The grass is green and velvety, starred with hundreds of dandelions.”

country road pei

“I don’t know what lies around the bend, but I’m going to believe that the best does,” said Anne, at the end of Anne of Green Gables. “I wonder how the road beyond goes—what there is of green glory and soft, checkered light and shadows—what new landscapes—what new beauties—what curves and hills and valleys further on.”

More reading about Lucy Maud Montgomery:

Mary Henley Rubio’s Lucy Maud Montgomery: The Gift of Wings, is one of the best biographies of an author I’ve read, meticulously researched, offering insights into Maud’s personality—and a shocking, controversial theory about her death.

Maud’s journal from 1889-1910 was a charming companion to my trip.

Of course, I reread Anne of Green Gables and found her as lovable as ever.

With recipes, crafts, and more, The Anne of Green Gables Treasury is a wonderful way to recreate Anne’s world (for kids—or anyone!). Co-author Carolyn Collins also has a website, Ingleside Impressions, filled with Anne info.

And you can check out my article here and read about my oyster fishing adventures here :)

Topics: Voyages | 16 Comments »

Gone fishin’

By Ann | August 1, 2014

lighthouse

Happy August!

It’s officially cucumber time and I’m taking the  month off from blogging. Instead of fishing for fish, I’ll be fishing for words—I hope to use this time to make some serious progress on my new book.

As I’m not actually going anywhere,  I’ll still be doing LOTS of cooking at home. If you’re curious about my kitchen, please stop by on Instagram :)

Enjoy the rest of the summer! See you in September!

Amitiés,
Ann

(Lighthouse at French River, Prince Edward Island, Canada.)

Topics: Uncategorized | 8 Comments »

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