Lengué, an izakaya in Paris
By Ann | October 11, 2011
I’ve heard izakayas described as Japanese pubs, which is an apt comparison if the pubs you frequent offer cool damp towels to cleanse your hands and serve chilled sake and small plates of gyoza, instead of pints and chicken and chips in a basket.
Recently, I was delighted to discover an izakaya in Paris, a bento box of a place in the 5th called Lengué. On a recent visit, we enjoyed a series of small plates washed down by beer, sake, and refreshing yuzu-soda and shochu cocktails. (Shochu is a type of Japanese distilled liquor, similar to vodka.)
The food, like these fried vegetarian dumplings, is simple, even homey, if your home is a tiny Tokyo studio apartment. And yet it also achieves the unique quality of being exactly what you want to eat at exactly the right moment.
Take, for example, these chicken meatballs. Tender and savory, glazed in a sticky, salty-sweet yakitori sauce, they were a satisfying counterpoint to a chilled Asahi beer, or tiny earthenware cup of perfumed sake.
Or, this dish of sauteed girolles in an earthy mixture of butter and soy sauce, which demonstrated the Japanese enthusiasm for seasonal ingredients, and paired beautifully with my sharply tart yuzu cocktail.
The dining room is furnished with a small counter, several high tables, and stools, which create a casual atmosphere. Lengué is a convivial place to share a meal with friends, to sip a cocktail (or two) and order (and reorder) a series of small, bright, salty bites. The attentive staff encouraged us to order food in waves, like tapas; you could also try the 28€ tasting menu.
Lengué
31 rue de la Parcheminerie, 5e
tel: 01 46 33 75 10
P.S. Read a blog post about Lengué (in French) from Table à découvert.
Topics: Dining Out and About, Paris | 6 Comments »
The new, new protein
By Ann | October 6, 2011
Would you (knowingly) eat bugs, mes amis? No, me neither, but reading a recent issue of the New Yorker, I was gripped by an article on entomophagy, or insect consumption. Fans of creepy-crawly cuisine view bugs as a new source of protein, an alternative to meat with a very, very small ecological footprint.
As the article says, much of the world eats bugs, including witchetty grubs in Australia, tarantulas in Venezuela and grasshoppers in Oaxaca, Mexico. When I lived in Beijing, fried scorpion on a stick was a popular snack at the Night Market, but I always dismissed it as touristy, created for the shock value and little else.
I’m not sure the article convinced me to head to the nearest bug supplier to pick up a bag of crickets. But it has made me curious about trying certain insects like escamoles, or ant’s eggs, a Mexican delicacy since the Aztecs. How about you, mes amis? Would you tuck in to a plate of butter-browned mealworms?
Read the New Yorker article here, and then watch a fascinating behind-the-article video with journalist Dana Goodyear.
P.S. I noticed that one of the chefs featured in the article, Laurent Quenioux, will be a contestant on the upcoming season of Top Chef Texas.
(Top photos via loupiote (Old Skool), bottom photo via trendzilla.)
Topics: In the news | 8 Comments »
Travels with spatulas
By Ann | October 3, 2011
For me, traveling is really just an excuse to eat new foods, so I was especially excited to research this article on cooking schools in Europe, which appeared in the New York Times on Sunday.
Which world cuisine are you interested in learning more about, mes amis?
P.S. I’m participating in a travel writing panel, tomorrow at 7.30 pm, at the American Library in Paris. I would love to see you there!
(Photo from the New York Times.)
Topics: Articles | 7 Comments »
Oh, sweet city of light
By Ann | September 29, 2011
Bonjour, mes amis! I’m so excited today to share a glimpse of an enchanting confection of a new book, PastryParis by Susan Hochbaum. It’s perfect for those who love Paris and pâtisserie (that is, tout le monde).
As the book’s subtitle says, “in Paris everything looks like dessert.” Author and graphic designer Susan Hochbaum has cleverly juxtaposed the city’s sweetest treats with its iconic architecture, landmarks, and urban and artistic details. From gas caps to the dome of Sacre Coeur, nothing has escaped her sugared lens.
But the book isn’t merely empty calories! In the back is a pastry guide, providing les bonnes adresses (+ telephone numbers and métros) for all the models pictured.
Isn’t Paris sweet, mes amis? What’s your favorite pâtisserie? I love éclairs au chocolat and financiers.
Susan will speaking in Paris at WH Smith on October 20, and signing copies of her delightful book. For more details, or to learn about other signings in the New York City area, visit her website.
(Photos courtesy of Susan Hochbaum.)
Topics: Livres, Paris | 10 Comments »
Talk on travel writing
By Ann | September 27, 2011
Have you ever wondered what it’s like to be a travel writer, mes amis? I love visiting beautiful destinations for work — but when I’m on a reporting trip, I also spend a lot of time searching for free Wifi and trying to eat light breakfasts without offending anyone.
I’m thrilled to be discussing all this and more at a panel on travel writing next Tuesday, October 4, at the American Library in Paris. Together, Canadian travel writer Lisa Pasold and I will be discussing the pleasures and pitfalls of our work.
Here are the details:
Tuesday, October 4, 7pm
Travel writing panel with Lisa Pasold, moderated by Clydette de Groot
American Library in Paris
10 rue du Général Camou, 7e
Métro: Ecole Militaire, Alma-Marceau
tel: 01 53 59 12 60
If you find yourself in Paris next week, I would love to see you! And, as I prepare my notes, I would love to know: What questions would you like to hear us answer?
Topics: Appearances | 5 Comments »
Culinary quartier: Maubert-Mutualité
By Ann | September 22, 2011
Maybe I’m just lazy, but I like one-stop shopping: a single trip on the métro, rewarded by a multitude of destinations. Especially when all the destinations are related to food. Today, I’m excited to share some of my favorite shops in the neighborhood at métro Maubert-Mutualité.
There is the excellent fromagerie, Laurent Dubois, a meilleur ouvrier de France, whose cheeses are impeccable.
I really love stopping here, chatting with the vendeurs, and spending my hard-earned centimes on a morsel of perfect cheese. Last time, I got a mini Epoisses that was beautifully ripened and the ideal size.
If you’re in more of an Eastern mood, there is the Asian épicerie, Sou-Quan, which carries all manner of Asian sauces, fresh vegetables, tofu, canned goods, frozen pot stickers, dumpling wrappers and more. It’s extremely convenient if you want to whip up a stir-fry but don’t feel like schlepping all the way to the 13th to go grocery shopping.
There is the Chinese noodle house, Les Pâtes Vivantes, which may or may not be going downhill (I haven’t been there for a long time), but will always be a viable cheap and cheerful eat.
And last but not least, just across the river, there is the glacier Berthillon, a veritable ice cream palace. The deep sugar nuttiness of their caramel au beurre salé ice cream can make a grown woman weep tears of joy.
I’m sure I missed lots of good addresses, mes amis! I’d love know — what are your favorites in the neighborhood?
(Photo of Berthillon from keetr.)
Fromagerie Dubois
47 bd Saint-Germain, 5e
tel: 01 43 54 50 93
Sou-Quan
35 Place Maubert, 5e
tel: 01 43 26 80 39
Les Pâtes Vivantes
22 bd Saint-Germain, 5e
tel: 01 40 46 84 33
Berthillon
29-31 rue Saint-Louis-en-île, 4e
tel: 01 43 54 31 61
Topics: Dining Out and About, Flâner, Paris | 7 Comments »
Septime
By Ann | September 19, 2011
‘Twas a lovely lunch I had last week at Septime, lovely because of the light-diffused, farmhouse-industrial dining room, the thoughtfully prepared food, and the conversation with Amy.
An entrée of boeuf cru, smoked potatoes and tarragon cleverly balanced creamy and crunchy with a layer of toasted breadcrumbs sprinkled between the ground beef and mashed potatoes.
The merlu main course shared the same attention to texture, with raw slivers of cauliflower offering a toothsome counterpoint to the fish and purée. Dabs of anchovy paste added a bold and salty — at times overpowering — punch.
To finish, we had a dessert of cassis and basil sorbet, an unexpected but joyous marriage, bright and cleansing, faintly licorice-y. Alas, the accompanying chocolate ganache felt like an afterthought; served too cold, it tasted slightly congealed and pale next to the sorbet’s sunny enthusiasm.
I enjoyed Septime tremendously. And yet…
After reading so many laudatory reviews, my expectations were at a fever pitch. In the end, I didn’t find Septime as revelatory as I expected. Don’t get me wrong — my meal was lovely, and the lunch menu — 26 Euros for three courses — has a rapport qualité prix that I would, without hesitation, describe as fantastic. The chef, Bertrand Grébaut, has a fine pedigree and a witty sensibility. But, in the end, this is simple, seasonal food, beautifully cooked — nothing more or less. The internet has made this restaurant the Next Big Thing, but I wonder if the lily will wilt under those extra flourishes of gilt.
The internets giveth and the internets taketh away. Blessed be the name of the internets?
Septime
80 rue de Charonne, 11e
tel: 01 43 67 38 29
Topics: Dining Out and About, Paris | 6 Comments »
Carrot cake cupcakes
By Ann | September 16, 2011
I spent yesterday morning baking carrot cake cupcakes for my husband’s birthday. I used this recipe (good, maybe a little too sweet) but invented my own cream cheese frosting… an eyeballed mix of cream cheese, butter, powdered sugar, lemon zest and juice and the tiniest smidge of salt to enhance the cream cheese.
Does your frosting ever seem too runny? I let mine chill in the fridge for an hour, which helped it set up and allowed me to pile it on in a big, sweet, fluffy cloud.
What’s your favorite birthday treat?
Topics: Recettes, Sur ma table | 15 Comments »
Strudel show
By Ann | September 13, 2011
When I went to Vienna last November, I loved eating apple strudel at the old-fashioned tearoom, Demel. At the time, I had no idea of the skill and labor involved in creating the sweet pastry.
The word strudel, which means “whirlpool” or “eddy” in German, refers to the swirl of thin dough wrapped around a soft filling. The pastry is stretched and rolled by hand into a sheet so thin you can read a newspaper through its surface (according to The Penguin Companion to Food).
This video from Vienna’s Café Residenz in the Schonbrunn Palace shows the delicate process from start to finish. Isn’t the pâtissier’s quick confidence amazing?
Topics: Uncategorized, Voyages | 7 Comments »
Currypalooza!
By Ann | September 9, 2011
Currypalooza: 1) A monthly celebration of Indian home cooking. 2) A virtual gathering of food bloggers, who prepare the same subcontinental recipe and blog about it.
I’m tickled pink to be part of this month’s Currypalooza, even if my post is a week late. Croque Camille selected the recipe which comes from Mallika Basu’s Miss Masala, one of my favorite cookbook’s ever. (I am not exaggerating. This book has changed my life.) (!!!!)
This month’s dish is called patra ni macchi, or marinated cod steamed in banana-leaf parcels. It’s a lovely and simple: a piece of fish rubbed with a spicy coconut herb paste, wrapped in a banana leaf, and steamed. And don’t worry if you’ve totally spaced out and you forget to add the coconut to the herb paste. It’s easy enough to scrape it all off and rectify your error. Guess how I know?
See? It’s much better with the coconut, which cuts the sharp bite from the finger chilies. And if your spaciness continues and you realize at the very last minute that you lack a key piece of equipment — that is, a steamer — well, you can always use – Mallika, if you’re reading this, avert your eyes – the microwave. Three minutes at 650 Watts worked quite beautifully.
Normally, I would now share a photo of the finished product, but something happened. Do you care to guess?
A) The lighting in my kitchen sucks.
B) Chopped herbs turn khaki green, akin to baby poo, when cooked.
C) I was so overwhelmed by the fish – sweet, tart, spicy, salty and coconuty, with a delightful herbal punch — that I forgot.
D) All of the above.
Instead, I leave you with the cover of Mallika’s book, Miss Masala. You could test out some of Mallika’s recipes from her top-notch blog. Or, you could try making your own banana-leaf parcels of cod — the recipe is posted over at Croque Camille. But I really suggest — in fact, I urge you — to go buy this book right now. I’m not just saying this because Mallika is a friend (though she is), or because authors need to stick together (though we do). I’m saying this because I love this book so much, I feel compelled to share it. And, really, isn’t that what blogging is all about?
Read this month’s other Currypalooza posts:
Topics: Cooking the Books, Trading Tastes | 10 Comments »