Cooking the Books Archives - Ann Mah | Ann Mah

Cooking the Books

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Meatballs from Eating Rome by Elizabeth Minchilli

Friday, May 15th, 2015

For someone who spends a lot of time in France, I eat an awful lot of Italian food. Even when I’m in France, I’m cooking/eating/researching/dreaming about Italian food. I’ve tried to analyze why—is it the sinuous pleasure of that final drizzle of extra virgin olive oil? Is Parmagiano Reggiano addictive?—but really who has the time […]

Spring asparagus from Elizabeth Bard’s Picnic in Provence

Monday, May 4th, 2015

I first met Elizabeth Bard in Paris, when we shared a plate of duck tongues and swapped book publishing experiences. She had just published a food memoir, Lunch in Paris, and given birth to a baby boy, and I remember feeling quite awestruck by her unflappable calm. A few months after our lunch, Elizabeth and […]

David Lebovitz’s My Paris Kitchen

Wednesday, September 17th, 2014

I think people can be divided into two categories: lunch buyers and lunch bringers. I used to be the former but New York City (and paying for childcare) have turned me into the latter. Every Sunday, I make something to eat during the week—sometimes a quiche, but more often a hearty bean salad. I used […]

Homemade ricotta

Tuesday, July 22nd, 2014

If I finish all my weekend cooking projects, I often say: “Hmm, maybe I’ll make a peach pie.” (Or a batch of financiers. A pot of black beans. A pint of ice cream. You get the picture.) To which my husband will say: “Please, NO, you’re doing too MUCH, you need to REST.” It’s become a […]

Piroshki for perfectionists

Tuesday, May 20th, 2014

I am not a perfectionist. (Then again, nor am I very self-aware.) But this recipe for piroshki seemed to bring out the very best (worst?) in me. I first made these savory stuffed pastries in March when the weather was frigid, filling large circles of pâte brisée with a mixture of mashed potatoes and mushrooms. […]

Moosewood’s country moussaka

Tuesday, May 6th, 2014

I’ve mentioned this before: I have a thing for casseroles. It started in grade school, when I read a bunch of books set in the 1950s—in particular, Mrs Piggle-Wiggle, which was about a twinkle-eyed, hump-backed woman who lives in an upside-down house and finds creative solutions to children’s problems. (For example: one little girl hates taking […]

Desperate to be a Housewife

Wednesday, January 8th, 2014

Happy New Year! I’m back from my annual Christmas sojourn in sunny Southern California… which seems very, very far away today, as the polar vortex sweeps through New York. Two weeks ago, I was watching surfers from the Huntington Beach pier and lunching al fresco; my mother turned on the air conditioning on Christmas day and […]

Just for me

Saturday, November 17th, 2012

I wasn’t going to write a single word about this artichoke tart with a polenta crust. I just wanted to admire the recipe, cook it and eat it (and share it with my husband, of course). But polenta pondering? Tart reflection? Nope. I love to cook, but lately it’s been feeling more like work than pleasure. […]

Passion fruit, pavlova, a little light larceny

Thursday, November 8th, 2012

I don’t know much about pavlova or passion fruit, but luckily I’ve got friends in the right places. Or, rather, I should say born in the right places: Australia and New Zealand. So when my dad decided to make a pavlova to celebrate his birthday a few weeks ago, I contacted my friends Katia and […]

Carnet de cuisine

Friday, January 13th, 2012

A few months ago I had dinner with a French friend and he showed me something really cool — his mother’s dinner party notebooks. For years — decades, even — ever since she was a young bride, his maman has kept a record of every dinner party she’s ever thrown: guest list, menu, recipes. As […]

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