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My Paris walking tour with La Cuisine Paris

By Ann | June 12, 2014

tour la cuisine paris 2

Three of my favorite things are Paris, walking in Paris, and food. And so, when Jane of La Cuisine Paris and I started planning my Paris popup tour, I couldn’t wait to hit the ground. And even though it rained on the day of my tour—comme une vache qui pisse (as they say so charmingly)—my stalwart fellow food lovers and I enjoyed a delicious (albeit damp!) afternoon.

E Dehillerinjpg

I wanted to offer insights into Julia Child’s Paris, and so one of our first stops was her favorite cookware shop, E. Dehillerin. Julia described herself as “a knife freak, frying pan freak, and gadget freak,” and it’s easy to imagine her wandering the narrow aisles, admiring the giant whisks and rolling pins, and asking the seasoned salesmen for advice. Two photos of Madame Child still hang above the register and one of the clerks said he’d met her in 1986. The shop has been open since 1820, and it’s still targeted mainly to professionals, which means its prices are listed before tax—hors taxes—unlike most retail shops in France.

au pied de cochon

We stopped outside Au Pied de Cochon, which is the only restaurant I know of in France that’s open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The special dispensation for extra hours was granted in 1947, after several lean war years. I like to imagine Julia squeezing into a narrow booth, digging into a gratinéed bowl of soupe à l’oignon after a frosty, wee hour visit to the market at Les Halles (which used to be located just across the street).

rue montorgueil la cuisine paris tour

rue montorgueil


We also visited Stohrer, one of Paris’s most venerable addresses, opened in 1730. When Louis XV married Marie Leszczynka of Poland in 1725, her pâtissier accompanied her to France in her retinue. Five years later, he opened this pâtisserie—and allegedly invented baba au rhum in the same spot. More recently, Le Figaroscope named Stohrer’s éclair au chocolat the best in Paris—a pronouncement that I don’t entirely agree with. Nevertheless, we bought a couple just to make sure :)

la cuisine paris tour

andouille de guéméné

pâte de campagne

The rain, by the way, finally stopped somewhere between the charcuterie and the fromagerie, just in time for us to squelch back to La Cuisine Paris for a decadent dégustation. On the menu: andouille de Guéméné, a tripe sausage from Brittany, which—I’m proud to say—was sampled by every single member of the group. We also tucked into rillettes of goose and of pork, rabbit pâté, foie gras, several types of cheese, and more, accompanied by a spritely white wine.

mastering the art of french eating

book signing

The afternoon ended with a book signing (every author’s favorite activity :) and then I was sad to say au revoir. I enjoyed meeting such a curious, enthusiastic group and loved introducing them to tripe sausage (among other things). My thanks to La Cuisine Paris for a lovely afternoon—I hope to do it again soon!

tour la cuisine paris

If you’d like to create your own walking tour of Paris:

E. Dehillerin
18-20 rue Coquillière, 1e, Paris
tel: 01 42 36 53 13

Au Pied de Cochon
6 rue Coquillière, 1e, Paris
tel: 01 40 13 77 00

51 rue Montorgueil, 1e, Paris
tel: 01 42 33 38 20

Or visit La Cuisine Paris for one of their wonderful walking tours, excursions, market tours and/or cooking classes.

(Photos that include moi thanks to Jane at La Cuisine Paris.)

Topics: Mastering the Art of French Eating, Paris | 16 Comments »

16 Responses to “My Paris walking tour with La Cuisine Paris”

  1. Karene Says:
    June 12th, 2014 at 10:18 pm

    So interesting! Wish I could have been there. I’m saving the info for when I do reach Paris. Great photos too!

  2. Susan Carter Says:
    June 12th, 2014 at 10:21 pm

    Sounds like a delightful day, despite the rain.

  3. thyme (sarah) Says:
    June 12th, 2014 at 10:38 pm

    Oh Ann! I did a food tour in Paris. I had no idea you were organizing these. I would have so much fun doing these types of tours. We did the St. Germain de Pres area…and it rained on us as well. However, I had a fabulous time and went back to the shops several times afterwards. I’ll be highlighting it…someday on the blog.

  4. Mardi (eat. live. travel. write.) Says:
    June 12th, 2014 at 10:47 pm

    GREAT itinerary! (My old hood!) Thanks for posting so I can live vicariously – can’t believe I am missing you by just a few days :(

  5. Emma Says:
    June 13th, 2014 at 12:16 am

    I would love to have been there! Despite the rain, lovely images of Paris.

  6. jeanne Says:
    June 13th, 2014 at 2:15 am

    Sounds like a lovely time. The rain makes Paris look even more charming. Hope you are enjoying your time and eating lots of delicious food.

  7. Karen Says:
    June 13th, 2014 at 6:43 am

    Really wish I was there. Thank you for sharing this! i will surely put this walk on my next visit. I agree, a lovely city for wonderful walks. Greetings from South Africa

  8. CK Says:
    June 13th, 2014 at 8:41 am

    Rain makes it real in a way — the brightness of June, though gorgeous, seems incredible, not very Paris. What a cool tour!

  9. Christine Griffith Says:
    June 13th, 2014 at 11:03 am

    I recognised all of these places…..masde me homesick for Paris. We had six wonderful years there. Such a great walking city and so many wonderful food places. Loved the photos.

  10. Sharon Says:
    June 14th, 2014 at 9:46 pm

    Ann – I happened to be by Pozzetto’s today and stopped in to try their gelato. A young group in front of me recommended that I try the pistachio. I got that flavor and the yougurt flavor.
    Judging by my sighs – the clerk and the young girls’ knew I had hit the jackpot! This is definitely the best gelato/glace in Paris. I agree with you on that. I never knew I even liked pistachio before this place!!!! Just tried Pierre Hermé twice, Bertilion and Grom in the last two weeks in Paris so far.
    Sharon – from the tour.

  11. adeline Says:
    June 15th, 2014 at 6:10 pm

    Sounds like you had fun. Wish we had been there with you. Everything looks and sounds delicious!

  12. Lindsey Says:
    June 15th, 2014 at 7:32 pm

    I would’ve loved to take this tour! Looks like the rain didn’t hinder the experience one bit :)

  13. Julie Cornelian Says:
    June 16th, 2014 at 5:17 pm

    Ann! What a great article. Looks like a fun group. After reading the chapter on Anduillette, I understand why you were proud all in your group tried same. I’ve never tried Rabbit pate…now I’m quite curious. I look forward to visiting Au pied du cochon next time I’m in town. Peace!

  14. Ann Says:
    June 23rd, 2014 at 5:38 pm

    Karene — Thank you! It was a fun afternoon. Cost me a pair of leather shoes, though (The rain! :)

    Susan — Everyone was really into the spirit of the afternoon. We had a wonderful time!

    Thyme (Sarah) — I love St-Germain des Prés chocolate shops — I wonder if yours was led by my friend Jill from Mad About Macarons? I look forward to reading about it soon!

    Mardi — We have to plan better next year! :)

    Emma — That is so sweet of you to say, especially since your photos are always so gorgeous. I think the grey skies actually made for some beautiful light (or maybe that’s lemonade)?

    Jeanne — As I said on the tour, the weather made things “authentic.” :)

  15. Ann Says:
    June 23rd, 2014 at 5:41 pm

    Karen — It’s a wonderful quartier for food exploring! Thanks for the sunshiny hello!

    CK — And at least we weren’t too warm (far from it, actually). Can’t imagine tucking into andouillette in a canicule :)

    Christine — Thank you! Walking in Paris is something I never stop missing.

    Sharon — Thank you for joining me and I’m so glad you found Pozzetto!

    Mom — Thanks! It was a lovely afternoon!

    Lindsey — I was impressed by the stalwart cheer of the group. They made it great!

    Julie — I’d love to hear your take on andouillette :)

  16. Charming Paris Apartment Says:
    June 23rd, 2014 at 7:23 pm

    Your guests were very lucky to have such a great foodie tour of Paris!!

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