Where to eat boeuf bourguignon in Burgundy | Ann Mah

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Where to eat in Burgundy

By Ann | November 14, 2013

vines

leftover grapes

autumn vines

The very word Burgundy makes me drool a little, evocative as it is of silky, fruity, ruby red vintages. But as I discovered on my visits here, the region is large — and the Côte d’Or wine country comprises only a very small portion of it.

Cattle dominates the southern part of the territory, specifically herds of snow-white Charolais, known for their meaty flanks. When I saw these animals grazing on flat pastures, the origins of Burgundy’s signature dish — boeuf bourguignon, or beef cooked in red wine — became patently clear. Beef and wine. Wine and beef. They’re the region’s dominant products. Of course, there are many wonderful things to taste in Burgundy…

cow

epoisses

Where to eat in Burgundy?

My suggestions focus mainly on Beaune, the prosperous capital of the Côte d’Or wine region.

La Cuisine de Pépita (22 Faubourg Madeleine, Beaune, tel: 03 80 24 19 64) is a bright, cheerful restaurant with an accommodating staff. I enjoyed the “menu Bourguignon,” which offered Burgundy classics with a twist, including boeuf bourguignon sparked up with ginger and orange zest.

Ma Cuisine (Passage Saint-Hélène, Beaune, tel: 03 80 22 30 22) is a bustling bistro with a reasonable lunch formule. Though I missed the boeuf bourguignon — which seems to be offered only in the evenings — the salade aux gésiers was delightful, the earthy seared chicken livers contrasting with bitter mesclun greens. Don’t miss the ripe Epoisses cheese at the end of the meal; it practically ran off my plate. Reservations essential

Fromagerie Hess (Place Carnot, Beaune, tel: 03 80 24 73 51) is a gleaming cheese shop in the center of town. A wonderful place to stock up on Epoisses, fromage de Cîteaux, and other local cheeses for a picnic.

What to see in Burgundy?

Château du Clos de Vougeot was once the headquarters of the Cistercian order of monks who tended the sea of vines that surround the immense and haughty stone structure. Today the building is a museum and conference center, where you can catch a glimpse of the monks’ immense industry, evident in enormous 15th-century grape presses and cavernous fermentation vats. Warning: don’t come thirsty — not a drop of wine is sold here.

Maison du Charolais (43 route de Mâcon, Charolles, tel: 03 85 88 04 00) is a quirky museum dedicated to the history of Charolais cattle.

Where to sleep in Burgundy?

Villa Louise (9 rue Franche, Aloxe-Corton, tel: 03 80 26 46 70) is a charming hotel in Aloxe-Corton with quiet, wood-beamed rooms and beds made up with hand-stitched quilts. The breakfast is a little pricey (€15 at my visit) but delicious, with croissants, homemade jam and baked fruit.

Where to drink in Burgundy?

You could follow in Thomas Jefferson’s august footsteps, via my New York Times article.

TJ

Vougeot

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Hungry for more? Today’s post is a companion to my new book, Mastering the Art of French Eating, a food memoir that Library Journal says “is sure to delight lovers of France, food, or travel.”

Curious? Order your copy here:
*Amazon
*Barnes and Noble
*Books-A-Million
*Indiebound
*iTunes

And more from the series, Where to Eat in France.

Topics: Mastering the Art of French Eating, Where to eat in France | 4 Comments »

4 Responses to “Where to eat in Burgundy”

  1. Mardi (eat. live. travel. write.) Says:
    November 15th, 2013 at 12:49 pm

    Bookmarked for my next trip there. Wish I had this list 2 years ago!

  2. Suzanne Says:
    November 15th, 2013 at 6:51 pm

    Today’s post transported me back to my vacation several years ago when, thanks to your NYT’s article, we stayed in Pommard where the plaque pictured above resides. Little did I know that you would one day have a blog and we would have the chance to connect. I remember thinking when walking up the lane to the plaque that I was walking in Jefferson’s footsteps because he had visited one of the wineries on that lane. Such a wonderful sense of history. Thank you for reminding me of that lovely September vacation.

  3. Julie Farrar Says:
    November 17th, 2013 at 8:29 am

    That photo of the red autumn vines against the stone/stucco house — I took a photo of those exact vines and exact house several years ago. I would like to say, though, that Beaune is not the only town worth visiting in Burgundy. My Dijon has Michelin restaurants as well as neighborhood ones where owner/server/chef brings what she wants to cook that day and you are glad to sit back in her cozy little restaurant on a cold night and wait to see what she offers. Dijon is also home to the Foire Gastronomie each November. (by the way, enjoying your book right now)

  4. CK Says:
    November 19th, 2013 at 11:45 am

    One thing I miss about living in France is access to “vieilles vignes” burgundy wine — such a nice hint of spice in the glass! If you’re “stuck” in Paris and can’t get to the region, it’s worth a visit to Ambassade de Bourgogne on rue de l”Odéon in the Sixth — good selection of wine and a pleasant place to stop for a post-movie apéro …

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