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Aveyron: Your questions answered
By Ann | October 8, 2010
I’m super excited about the Aveyron Fair that’s coming up this weekend (October 9-11 rue de l’Aubrac, Bercy, 11e). But when I mentioned it to a friend, she was like: “What the heck is Aveyron and why are you always yammering on about it?” Yikes, mes amis, I wasn’t trying to be obscure! In preparation for the festivities, here are some questions answered about Aveyron.
What is Aveyron?
Aveyron is a département of France — that’s kind of like a state in the U.S. — a mountainous region, 350 miles south of Paris. Reaching Aveyron is difficult as there is no TGV or direct train service. The closest train station is Clermont-Ferrand, which is still about 125 miles away. As a result, Aveyron is considered a bit remote and remains relatively undiscovered by tourists. The three-starred Michelin restaurant, Michel Bras, and ancient St-Jacques-de-Compestelle pilgrimage route are perhaps the biggest tourist draws.
But the word Aveyron seems kind of familiar…
If you’ve visited a Parisian café, perhaps you’ve noticed a variation of the same word: Auvergne, Auvergnat, Aveyronais. Back in the 19th century, most Paris cafés were run by families from Aveyron, who left the secluded region to seek their fortune. They came to the capital, and opened combination café/coal shops, which evolved into the cafés we know and love today. Today, Aveyron is still synonymous with “café-owner.” There’s even a French word — bougnat — which translates to “coal seller from Aveyron.” (If you’re curious about this migration, check out this article.)
How do you know about Aveyron anyway?
I can take no credit for discovering Aveyron. It was my husband who befriended two café-owning, Aveyronais brothers when he lived in Paris as an exchange student. Twenty years — and many trips to Aveyron — later they’re still friends (and my husband speaks great French). The full story of how they met is recorded here.
So, why is there an Aveyronais Fair in Paris?
Think of it like the Chinese New Year parade in Chinatown. Aveyronais are very proud of their traditions, food, music, dress and dancing. Plus, after 100+ years as Parisian café owners, there are a whole heck of a lot of them here.
What’s there to do at the fair?
Eat, my friends. Freshly fried savory pancakes called farcou. Charcuterie like dry-cured sausage or ham. Cheese like stinky bleu d’Auvergne, which tastes strong like Roquefort. Or fromage de Laguiole – cheese from the village of Laguiole — hard, made from cow’s milk cheese, reminiscent of cheddar. Wash it all down with local wine. (For my post from last year’s fair, click here.)
What about the cheesy potatoes?
YES! Aveyron’s most famous dish, aligot, will also be on offer. Aligot is quite simply mashed potatoes mixed with cheese with some crème fraîche thrown in for good measure.
I’m not going to be in Paris this weekend. Can I still have an Aveyron experience even if I miss the fair?
Bien sûr! There are many Aveyronais cafés in Paris — our favorite, of course, is Le Mistral (401 rue des Pyrénées, 20e), which is owned by our friends, and was started by their father in 1954. Au Bon Coin (9 rue des Cloys, 18e), in Montmartre, is another charming and honest neighborhood spot, owned by another Aveyronais friend.
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8 Responses to “Aveyron: Your questions answered”
Comments
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October 8th, 2010 at 7:16 am
Wow, thanks for the info! I did not know…well, so much of that! Cheesy potatoes…hmm, those seem to be calling my name.
October 8th, 2010 at 10:09 am
I really wish I could be there this weekend for the Aveyronais Food Fair. I had Aligot the first time in my life about 15 years at Michel Bras (we made a special detour to eat there on a driving tour of France) and I have been a big fan of the food from the region ever since. I will definitely note your restaurant recommendations for when we are in Paris later this fall. A great post.
October 8th, 2010 at 12:15 pm
Yum! I wish I could be there, too! That steak and aligot photo looks very appetizing …
October 8th, 2010 at 12:48 pm
Thank you for your post. You have Aveyron down to the ground. I would just add the Millau Viaduct, the tallest bridge in the world, as another tourist draw. And there is a train station in Aveyron’s capital Rodez, although I must admit it is a long train ride from Paris – you have to be patient!
Thanks again for your post and enjoy the Aveyron Fair!
October 8th, 2010 at 2:07 pm
We found you last year when we were planning our trip to Averyon and were looking for a description of farcous. Thanks for the information and enjoyment you give me regularly. WE DID LOVE our visit to a gite near Rodez and went a different way each day to exlore part of la France we’d not seen before. When in Paris this pst june we ate as always at our favorite Ambussade de Auvergne. OH to be there this weekend!.
October 8th, 2010 at 4:38 pm
I second the nomination of Ambassade d’Auvergne. And when are you going to the fair? Nick has a lot of work to do this weekend, and it would be better if I were out of the house. Give me a call. (I’d call right now, but I realize it’s quite late.)
October 9th, 2010 at 4:23 am
Coming up on 23 years since the first time I went to the region with Didier and Alain — and it still manages to surprise, every visit. One very picturesque spot is Conques, which is on the pilgrimage route and has a beautiful cathedral. And if you like chocolate, the Abbaye de Bonneval outside Espalion is a key stop! Big thanks to the Miquel family for introducing me to this great area!
October 12th, 2010 at 3:16 am
Sion — Once you taste the cheesy potatoes, you will be addicted for life. Consider yourself warned!
Michel — Thank you! There’s another recommendation above (from Camille) for the Ambassade d’Auvergne. I haven’t been yet but I’m looking forward to trying it.
Tammy — Merci! Yes, steak + aligot is delicious. And my husband and I joke that it’s also the healthiest meal ever.
Muriel — Coming from an Averyon expert like yourself, I feel truly honored by your kind words! Thank you also for suggesting the Millau Viaduct, which is truly stunning.
Judith — Thank you for your sweet comment. I’m so pleased you enjoyed your trip to Aveyron. I LOVE farcous — did you try any while you were there?
Camille — What a lovely afternoon! Have you finished your aligot leftovers yet?
Chris — How could I have forgotten Conques? The cathedral there is exquisite.