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August
By Ann | August 4, 2010
It’s August, which means Parisians have fled their fair ville — staying in town during the dog days of summer is so terribly unchic, you know. And so, mes amis, it’s just little old me alone in the big old City of Light. And, to be honest with you, I’m kind of enjoying the emptiness.
Of course, when I say “alone” I’m exaggerating a tiny bit.
There are still 100,003 tourists wandering the streets. And (based on this tour bus, at least) some of them seem kind of angry.
Strange things happen in August. Like, maybe, the boulanger goes on vacation at Poilane, leaving the assistant in charge. And the assistant burns all the walnut rolls so that when you go to buy breakfast they don’t have your favorite bun, and you’re forced to substitue a petit pain au seigle instead.
Lots of places close.
Even Berthillon. After all, why would Paris’s most famous ice cream shop be open during the hottest month of the year?
The city takes advantage of the emptiness and tears up the streets in the name of “travaux.”
And many commercants have gone on holiday, leaving lots of empty stalls in the marché.
Can you sense where this post is going mes amis? Yes, this weekend, I, too, will be flying the nest for a little summer vacation in Provence. I’m so excited, I’ve been dreaming for weeks about sunny afternoons by the pool, long walks, juicy tomatoes, and the scent of lavender. Posting will be light but I’ll be back soon with photos and a little guide to my favorite Provence spots — one of my favorite places in the world, it’s so dreamy! Enjoy your lazy summer days, wherever you are.
Topics: Uncategorized | 8 Comments »
August 4th, 2010 at 12:14 pm
That tour bus made me giggle! I actually love Paris in August – I love being able to get a Vélib’, I love having personal space when I’m walking down the street… I do try to avoid the touristy parts of town, though. Have a wonderful vacation!
August 4th, 2010 at 2:09 pm
I agree with Camille. I kind of love Paris in August, too. I feel more relaxed, like more of this city is mine (as if I could ever own a part of Paris!) I also like working in August. I feel like I’m “getting ahead” of everyone else while they vacation. (Yes, I play psychological games with myself – no one else really cares if I’m writing or not).
Have a great vacation!
August 5th, 2010 at 12:28 am
I agree with both Camille and Sion — Beijing during chunjie, New York weekends in August, Paris throughout this month — of course there is something spooky about cities without crowds, but it is so nice, for just a bit, to have the sensation that the place is all ours.
August 5th, 2010 at 5:00 am
I love the emptiness too. But I’m not loving this weather, not one bit. And I want my Stohrer back!
August 6th, 2010 at 3:44 am
So true about Berthillon. At Jussieu, the cafeteria closed for the summer after July 14th. So all the grad students started mobbing the one shop across the street that makes decent sandwiches. There was a line around the corner — the shop’s business never was so good. So what do the shopkeepers do? Go on holiday too, of course.
August 10th, 2010 at 5:46 am
Ann, I am still here so you are not completely alone. I did get a week in Copenhagen which was nice and cool, but that was at the end of July until the 4th of August. This is my first summer here and I am surprised that it has not been as beastly hot as I expected it to be–and no mosquitos.
I live near Place Denfert Rochereau and I can often go out on my balcony and see an empty circle sans voitures. I can go to le Jardin du Luxembourg and actually get a table at the cafe. It has been a nice experience. I will do it again next year.
August 19th, 2010 at 12:42 am
I just finished reading your book and I wanted to look up your website right away. I really enjoyed your book, it was refreshing to read about character who had really good friends but was able to hold her own amongst the “catty” as well. I’ve read a lot of books where the main character (usually indian) struggles with his/her identity and what I liked about your book was that Iz didn’t seem to struggle with her identity- everyone else around her did! It’s how I feel, I’m very certain of who I am- an American who’s Muslim, with Pakistani ethnicity..temporarily in the Hamptons. But boy, do people like to figure out “where I’m from” and “how did i learn to speak English so well!” Well you know what I mean.
Your post reminds me of what its like in the Hamptons from labor day to memorial day- it’s relatively empty, with many of the great bakeries and restaurants closed until the summer. When the summer comes, it’s great to have the shops open, but I dread the crowd! Thank you for your book.
August 23rd, 2010 at 9:57 am
Camille — I agree, August is the best time of year to Vélib, when all the aggressive motorists are away. Hope you’re having a great vacation!
Sion — You ARE getting ahead while everyone vacations! And don’t forget your blog readers are clamoring for more!
Chris — You’re right, big cities without crowds do seem a little wistful.
Sweet Freak — Is Stohrer stilled closed? Pierre Hermé is back (sigh of relief). Hope you’re having a great holiday! I’m sure you’ll be surprised to hear that it’s raining today.
tf — Ha ha! Yet, why am I not surprised?
Francesca — Your August sounds so tranquil — not even a mosquito! I think they were all down south with me.
Fatima — Thank you so much for your thoughtful message. I am extremely touched by your kind words, and honored that you recognized some of your own experiences in the book. By the way, I also often receive compliments for my “fluent English”!
I’ve never been to the Hamptons, but it sounds blissful in the off-season — hope you enjoy the tranquility when it arrives, soon!