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La Belle Bretagne
By Ann | May 12, 2010
I’d dreamed of going to Brittany for so long — land of crêpes and oysters, wild coast, striped shirts, wooden shoes, corsairs and fishing boats — that I was afraid it would disappoint me. It didn’t. Even though I only touched a tiny part of the jagged coast of France, I was charmed. Alors, what did I do?
Breathed in salty sea breezes at the Pointe de Grouin near Cancale.
The yellow, flowering shrubs are called gorse and when the sun warms them, they smell like coconut.
Soaked up the sea-faring atmosphere and dreamed of pirates.
Visited Mont Saint-Michel, which is technically in Normandy, and yet is featured in every Brittany guide book.
Is it touristy? Yes. Tour buses line the parking lot, unruly groups of schoolchildren careen around sharp corners, and a simple omelette costs a shocking 28€. Yet, somehow that all disappears when you’re inside the 15th-century abbey. My advice? Arrive early — 10am or before — and depart before lunch.
From the top of the church, there’s a sweeping view of the Bay. They say the tide comes in at the speed of a galloping horse.
In Cancale, I sunned myself by a pretty beach at the edge of town.
I also scouted crêpes, which hail from Brittany.
Savory galettes are made with buckwheat flour. I gobbled up one filled with ham, cheese, potatoes, and salad.
And then there are dessert crêpes, like this one oozing with salted butter caramel.
Alas, I didn’t spot this tiny oyster market until AFTER lunch.
They shuck the shellfish to order and then you eat your oyster picnic by the sea, like these guys. Two people, two dogs, two dozen oysters — what more could you ask for?
The beach is carpeted in empty oyster shells.
It was a lovely trip, and now I can’t wait to go back, to explore even farther west, Quimper, Brest, Pont-Aven and the very furthest points known as Land’s End.
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7 Responses to “La Belle Bretagne”
Comments
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May 12th, 2010 at 1:26 pm
Ann
I’m glad you enjoyed Cancale. Most of my family holidays as a child were spent there; the happiest times of my life. That’s probably why I moved to Brittany 7 years ago.
I loved the photos – they brought back so many good good memories; where those two people (and their dogs) are eating oysters… my mum and I used to go fishing for bass and mullet and then rush home to eat them fresh as fresh can be.
All the best
Keith
May 13th, 2010 at 10:14 am
I am going in October and can’t wait…for all the same reasons that you so wonderfully described above!
May 14th, 2010 at 4:05 am
What great pictures! Years ago I went to St Malo and it poured buckets the entire weekend. That did not prevent me from walking all over the “ville intramuros” and devouring huge quantities of seafood. But despite my affection for France, I am less familiar with the buckwheat crepes you discuss — certainly worth a return trip!
May 14th, 2010 at 10:18 am
Looks like you got gorgeous sunny weather, too! Sounds like a great getaway.
May 14th, 2010 at 11:30 pm
Looked like a perfect weekend getaway with photogenic skies and azure seas. Thanks for the vicarious scenic and food thrills. I could almost smell the marine air. Beautiful photos!
May 15th, 2010 at 1:44 am
THIS is what I’m looking forward to as a member of the employed world. . . .weekends poking around the corners of France. Have missed it SO much.
Looks beautiful!
May 19th, 2010 at 9:23 am
Keith — You’re lucky to make your home in such a beautiful place. Thank you for sharing your memories of Brittany — I loved reading them.
Andi — It’s breathtaking. Enjoy the trip-planning (one of my favorite parts of travel).
Nat — Buckwheat crepes are amazing. Definitely worth a repeat visit just to eat them.
Camille — I was very, very lucky with the weather. Brittany in the rain is probably more like Bleak-any.
Kim B. — Poking around small corners of France is one of the best parts of living here, n’est-ce pas? I can’t wait to read about your next adventure on your blog!