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Secrets of a vegan cupcake baker

By Ann | April 27, 2010

Paris’s current dessert trend goes something like this: The cupcake is the new macaron which is the new black. At least according to the New York Times. In celebration of everyone’s favorite mini-gateau, we sat down with Celeste Rhoads of Pop Cupcakes, a Parisian cupcake traiteur (shhh! her sweet treats are vegan!), to discuss French enthusiasm for American desserts, and her favorite animal-friendly baking tips.

Why cupcakes in Paris? Why vegan cupcakes?

There is a real lack of fun and colorful desserts in this city!  I noticed a growing interest in cupcakes here in Paris, but none of them did it for me. I thought it was time to bring a little more American flavor to the mix and add some extra adult charm as well (some Pop Cupcakes are spiked with rum or other “party” flavors), so I started making my Pop Cupcakes. And aside from the fact that I’m vegetarian (not vegan; I do love cheese, just not in my cupcakes), I simply think vegan cupcakes taste better.

I have to admit, the words “vegan baked goods” don’t exactly make my mouth water. Are your cupcakes appealing for non-vegans as well?

Yes!!! When people hear the word “vegan” they often think “gross!” but honestly, isn’t coconut cream more appealing than eggs in a cake? Or almond milk instead of boring old low-fat? My biggest and first “fans” didn’t know my cupcakes were vegan when they had their first bites; they just noticed that they were extra moist and flavorful. I think that’s really the benefit for non-vegans: a vegan cupcake leaves more room for the yummy flavors and the consistency is better as well.

How do the French feel about cupcakes?

The French seem to be . . . excited about cupcakes more than anything. A lot of French people seem to be attracted to cupcakes because they are everything they love about America: colorful, cool and extra-sugar infused.

Can ANY recipe be veganized? What are your top tips for home bakers?

Yes! I have yet to find a recipe that can’t be veganized (we’re talking baking here, not beef stew… that’s another story).

The idea is that you just substitute another liquid for the eggs (about 2 tablespoons of liquid per egg) and substitute the milk with any kind of non-dairy liquid.

My top tips would be: add variety, add something sneaky and add a little extra. The trick for making the vegan recipe better than the original is to use a mixture of flavors in the replacement. I love to use coconut cream and vanilla soymilk. If you use something fun like rose essence or Cointreau as part of the liquid replacement it adds a whole new depth to the recipe. And then, whenever I’m “following” a recipe, I still add an extra spoonful of something flavorful. I really hate dry cakes!

A good example of this is, if you’re making a basic chocolate cake that calls for 2 eggs and a cup of milk you would need to add about 5 tablespoons of liquid instead of the eggs, so I use 4 tablespoons of coconut cream (super rich!) and a tablespoon of Cointreau. Then use a cup of vanilla soymilk instead of the regular milk. It’s delicious!

Topics: Q&A | 8 Comments »

8 Responses to “Secrets of a vegan cupcake baker”

  1. sayuri Says:
    April 27th, 2010 at 7:13 pm

    these cupcakes are delicious!!!!

  2. Helen Says:
    April 28th, 2010 at 6:30 am

    Oh Celeste, we all adore your cupcakes.

    Even my usually dubious French husband has been totally won over. And you know my colleagues are always thrilled when a new shipment comes in. Bravo!

  3. chris Says:
    April 28th, 2010 at 4:21 pm

    I love the idea of Pop Cupcakes — congrats! Also, how do you say “cupcakes” in French? Is it “mini-gateaux,” as noted above?

  4. Celeste Says:
    April 29th, 2010 at 4:27 pm

    Chris, I usually just refer to them as “gateaux americains” but then make sure to emphasis extra loudly that their really called CUPCAKES! ;)

  5. Camille Says:
    May 2nd, 2010 at 12:47 pm

    My boss asked me to make these, describing them as “des tartes américaines… avec les couleurs, machin et tout.” Obviously, I had no idea what he was taking about. When we finaly figured it out, I said I’d be happy to make him some if he’d buy me the molds. So far, no cupcakes.

  6. Lynde Says:
    May 4th, 2010 at 1:52 pm

    Could you share the recipe, please.

    Thank you.

  7. Sweet Freak Says:
    May 4th, 2010 at 1:59 pm

    Oh goody, a new cupcake to try in Paris – duly noted!

  8. Crusty Says:
    May 6th, 2010 at 8:01 am

    Helen is right, we all love your cupcakes. Bring us some more!!!

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