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Snow and Scotland

By Ann | January 7, 2010

The Scots call New Year’s Eve “hogmanay” and this year I was chuffed to ring in this very Scottish holiday with my Scottish mates, in Perthshire. As you can see from these photos, it was extremely cold — and also very beautiful.

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Yes, the sun sets at 4.45pm. But the light — what there is of it — is exquisite.

The shadows were long, even at high noon.

On New Year’s Eve, we partook of ye olde haggis. What is haggis? It’s sheep’s heart and lungs mixed with beef fat, oats, onion and loads of salt, stuffed into the bladder and boiled. It’s actually quite savory and tasty with a nutty, oaty texture (it helps if you don’t think about the ingredients). For vegetarians, there’s an animal-free version (photo above), which tastes like oats and lentils, mixed with onion and loads of salt and pepper. I’m not a vegetarian, but I pretend to be one when haggis is being served.

Haggis is served with “neeps” (mashed turnips) and “tatties” (mashed potatoes). A wee dram of whisky (I’m not poking fun — they actually talk like this) may be poured over your plate if the haggis seems too dry. But by far the most important part of a haggis dinner is the reading of Robert Burns’s “Address to a Haggis” with as thick a Highland burr as possible. Make sure to stab the haggis at the appropriate verse. Repeat until haggis is finished.

The next morning, burn off the haggis by tramping in the twelve inches of snow that have fallen during the night. Or, build a snow man.

Happy new year, and, as they say in Scotland, slainte!

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8 Responses to “Snow and Scotland”

  1. adeline yen mah Says:
    January 7th, 2010 at 6:00 pm

    Dear Ann, Your holiday in Scotland sounded cold but full of fun. Did you have a snowball fight?
    Adeline

  2. Alison Says:
    January 7th, 2010 at 8:59 pm

    Lovely photos, as usual…and I could hear your friends’ Highland burr perfectly through your very funny writing. And for the record, I think I’d go veggie too. ;-)

  3. Chris Says:
    January 8th, 2010 at 1:12 am

    What a difference a month makes! When we were there in late Novemeber, the hills were still green. Whatever time of year, Perthshire = paradise.

  4. Kim B. Says:
    January 8th, 2010 at 4:47 am

    awesome. your decision to go veggie is very well advised.

    I went to first grade in scotland and returned to the States with a VERY thick burr. Imagine living in Oklahoma with a think brogue and no one can understand you, and you wonder what’s wrong with these people, because you’re being perfectly clear!

    sounds like a WONDERFUL way to ring in the new year.

  5. Bob Says:
    January 8th, 2010 at 1:43 pm

    Your stunning winter photos brought back Indian summer memories of Hennessy romping through the woods as we chuntered along the beautiful rolling hills and trails. I thought I could still see that landscape under the blanket of snow.

  6. Ann Says:
    January 15th, 2010 at 8:33 am

    Mom — No, no snowball fights! But we did go sledding!

    Alison — I think it’s funny the haggis wrapper says “guardians of Scotand’s national dish.” Beware of any food that needs its own guardian!

    Chris — You would have loved my walk! For one thing — it wasn’t pissing with rain!

    Kim — Ha! My friend Andrew trots out the most hilarious phrases. “I’ll give him a bell.” (phone call) “I need some bread.” (cash) “I’m going for a swim in the loch.” They really use the word loch!

    Dad — You’ll be happy to know that Hennessey the cocker spaniel is still as headstrong as ever. And he likes to roll in the snow.

  7. Camille Says:
    January 16th, 2010 at 7:43 am

    Looks gorgeous! We’re considering taking a trip to Scotland for les vacances d’hiver - I might have to pretend to be a vegetarian around the haggis too. ;)

  8. Gudrun Joyce Says:
    March 18th, 2010 at 10:20 am

    Thank you Ann for describing your “Hogmany” in our home so beutifully. And my apologies for writing this so long after January.You will be glad to hear the snow has melted away and now the hills are full of snowdrops and the daffodils are showing. Looking forward to your next visit and so does Hennessy and the rest of the family.Congratulations on your book launch

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