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Dining Out and About (Paris): To eat, perchance to dream
By Ann | October 30, 2009

Do you dream about dessert? Evidently, pâtissier Philippe Conticini does. The French media has been raving about his new shop, La Pâtisserie des rêves, so I skipped over there last weekend for a little look-see-taste. Oh, it’s a tough life, let me tell you.
The first thing I noticed were the glass domes. Or, as Sylvia Plath would call them, the bell jars. They encase each displayed pastry like it’s a crown jewel — unfortunately, on the rainy Saturday of my visit, this led to some unattractive condensation (photo above).

From the outside, the shop looks like a twinkling fairy-land. Except for the grumpy queue of people, which is pretty much a constant. FYI, the ordering process is a little arcane:
1) Wait in line for a very, very long time. Do not leave the queue to look at the pastry, or you will lose your spot and have to start all over again.
2) Place your order with a young woman clad in a sexy, white shift dress. She may try to punch your request into an electronic machine, but then again, the machine might be broken. No matter, pen and paper works, too.
3) Pay for your order at the cashier.
4) Wait for your order to be boxed behind-the-scenes.
5) Pick up pink box.

I think everyone in line felt like this kid.

But what to order? Ah, that is the question. There are glowing tarte tatins (above right), and tartes aux pommes (above left).

The tarte à l’orange douce (front) and Saint-Honoré (behind).

Sweet breads flavored with hazelnut or vanilla.

Chausson aux pommes, or apple turnovers.

Outside the shop, I spotted evidence of on-the-run pastry consumption — behavior most un-French. Sacre bleu!

Later that night, we opened our pink box with great anticipation.

Despite the pâtissier’s best efforts to keep them intact — pink plastic picks stuck into foam board — the pastries slid (photo courtesy of Serge).

No matter, we still enjoyed a tarte tatin (meltingly tender apples, pastry a little soggy), a tarte à l’orange douce (a fragrant and delicate orange glaze above a creamy, eggy custard, delightful), and a tarte au citron (pictured above — tangy and refreshing, crust a little soggy, my least favorite — but then again, am not a fan of meringue topping). I can’t wait to return to try the Paris Brest, which I’ve heard is superb.
As for my final verdict — is Pâtisserie des Rêves the stuff dreams are made of? Hm, I think I’ll have to do more research…
Pâtisserie des Rêves par Philippe Conticini
93 rue du Bac, 7ème
tel: 01 42 84 00 82
Closed Mondays
Topics: Dining Out and About |
13 Responses to “Dining Out and About (Paris): To eat, perchance to dream”
Comments
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October 30th, 2009 at 8:57 am
I was addicted to chaussons aux pommes when I was a student in Paris. I knew exactly the baking schedule of my local boulangerie, so I used to show up every morning at the right time to get them while they were still hot. So buttery and flakily delectable, especially with coffee and International Herald Tribune accompaniment! The ones above look fantastic!
October 30th, 2009 at 9:26 am
Oh how delicious they look! Re queueing strategy, bring a friend or two. Then tag team betwen viewing and queueing.
October 30th, 2009 at 2:08 pm
I love it that you photographed the evidence of on-the-run pastry eating! Now, if only you could capture some lithe, beautiful French woman shoving it into her bouche …
October 31st, 2009 at 6:21 am
I love the photos. Especially the one illustrating the effort to keep the little gems intact during its transport from patisserie to its destination of one’s maw.
October 31st, 2009 at 1:37 pm
Go back for the Paris Brest! It’s a revelation.
November 1st, 2009 at 12:11 am
Passed that place three weeks ago on the way to Poilane to get bread and cookies . I had to stop and stare at this Patiss. So shockingly precious, even more so than Hermé, Unlike Hermé, it was as still as a crypt.
But, from the sound of it, I have to get over myself?
November 1st, 2009 at 5:41 am
[…] Dining Out and About (Paris): To eat, perchance to dream | Ann Mah annmah.net/2009/10/30/dining-out-and-about-paris-to-eat-perchance-to-dream – view page – cached Freelance journalist Ann Mah has contributed to Conde Nast Traveler, the International Herald Tribune and many other publications. This blog features her articles and also discusses food, restaurants… (Read more)Freelance journalist Ann Mah has contributed to Conde Nast Traveler, the International Herald Tribune and many other publications. This blog features her articles and also discusses food, restaurants and (Read less) — From the page […]
November 1st, 2009 at 3:05 pm
Perhaps the trash recepticles were filled by American tourists. There really needs to be more evidence before we accuse the French, don’t you think? L.O.L. Everything in Paris seems to be worth waiting for!
November 1st, 2009 at 9:00 pm
Ann I found you!!!!!!!
What a great view of pastries. How is your life in Paris? Are you well?
Did you gain more friend scince you moved there? just kidding!! haha
Congratulations on your book published!
I just bought you mom’s book too
So amazing oh wait Im not supposed to write about this here, aren’t I?
So good see you! love miyoko
November 3rd, 2009 at 4:49 am
If you need assistance in conducting more research, let me know.
Love the photographic evidence of the un-French behavior and the description of the ordering process!! Come to think of it, it reminds me of being in GUM in Moscow during the Soviet era . . .except for old chunky ladies instead of someone in a slinky shift. Oh and the fact that there was actually something on the shelves to choose from. Details, details.
November 3rd, 2009 at 11:57 am
Chris — Wow, you must have gotten up EARLY to catch those pastries right out of the oven. Yum, I’m sure it was well worth it.
Lil — I like your strategy!
Heather — If ONLY I could have captured IPC (Illicit Pastry Consumption) in action…
Maria — Yes, the picks + foam board are a clever system — too bad our pastries still collapsed. By the way, I’ve been very into that word, “maw,” lately.
Zeva B. — I’m definitely going back for the Paris Brest. And the St Honoré.
Alice — It’s pretty poncey, I’m not going to lie. But the pastry is awfully good. I’d check it out at least once, but go during the middle of the week to avoid queue, if at all possible.
Kathleen — You’re right, we have no evidence of who ate-and-ran. Perhaps the French etiquette police need to install hidden “manners” cams?
Miyoko — I’m so glad you stopped by my blog!
Kim B. — I will definitely let you know when I next embark on some extensive research ;). And perhaps we should call the Pâtisserie des Rêves apparat-chic…? Ba dum bum.
November 5th, 2009 at 6:27 am
Sign me up for that research team!
I admit, I judge pâtisseries on their choux creations, particularly the éclair. (Points for having something other than coffee and chocolate, for sure!)
November 6th, 2009 at 1:11 am
For the record, I didn’t get up all that early; the boulanger baked a mid-morning batch. I often grabbed one while doing laundry — the laundromat was right next door to the bakery!