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Just like grandma used to make

By Ann | October 14, 2009

Bonjour, mes amis, and welcome to another edition of Q&A. Today we are thrilled to welcome Patricia Tanumihardja, author of The Asian Grandmother’s Cookbook. Pat interviewed dozens of grannies for the book, writing down their recipes and cooking tips in an effort to honor these “culinary flame-keepers.” The result is a book that collects more than 130 recipes from over twenty different Asian cultures. We chatted with Pat about ubiquitous Asian granny ingredients, tapping into the grandma network, and her favorite granny cooking tips.

What drew you to write about Asian grandmothers and their recipes?

I really can’t take credit for the idea since it was my publisher’s. However, the idea instantly appealed to me because I never knew my grandmothers and I think that deep down in my heart I’ve been seeking the grandma-granddaughter bond I never had. I remember when I was growing up I was always envious of my friends who had grandmas living at home with them or just a short drive away who cooked for them, gave them sage advice and, of course, lots of gifts!

Did you discover a common thread (or secret ingredient) that ties these women together?

Love. It was what motivated each and every one of them. These women cooked for their families even though many of them worked outside of the home, even when they were struggling to survive because of war or financial hardship. I believe food and language are the two most important elements in keeping a culture alive. Grandmothers are the closest link to their homeland, they tried to keep the culinary flame alive for their children and especially grandchildren who most likely have no memory of their homeland.

Soy sauce and fish sauce were ubiquitous ingredients! Don’t even get me started on the different varieties though …

How did you find these grandmothers? Can you describe the recipe collection process? 

Friends would be like, “My mom is visiting from Ohio, would you like to cook with her?” When personal connections failed, I just tried my luck! For example, I really wanted to learn about Lao dishes and recipes so someone put me in touch with the deacon of a Lao church in Seattle and he told me just to show up on a Sunday and he would introduce me to some good cooks. That’s what happened and these women opened up their kitchens to me!

I cooked with as many people as were willing and recorded the recipes as they were showing me how to make the dishes. This involved my camera, notebook, measuring spoons and cups and being swift on my feet! I also collected recipes through email and via phone from various people. There was a lot of back and forthing with these recipes as inevitably ingredients or steps were left out which led to some “interesting” results in the kitchen. I also consulted old cookbooks especially community cookbooks like church or temple cookbooks that were very popular fundraising projects.

Was there a sense of nostalgia while interviewing these women? Did you get the feeling these grandmothers grew up cooking at the knee of their grandmother?

Considering the outpouring of stories, most definitely! As the grandmas chopped vegetables and stuffed sausages, they’d relate how they learned to cook from their mothers or aunts or grandmas. One grandma became the family cook at 13 when her mother decided she wanted to open a shop. Another grandma learned how to make sausages from a neighbor at a young age and sold them at the market because of financial hardship. The stories are endless.

Any grandma cooking tips to share?

Practice makes perfect! It sounds so simple but it’s true. Many of these women started off not knowing how to cook rice, the most basic of cooking techniques in an Asian kitchen. But through learning from others—whether their own mothers or grandmothers, friends or even books—and cooking almost every day, they perfected their dishes and their techniques.

Pat’s Favorite Asian Grandmother Cooking Tips

1. Use a teaspoon to scrape the paper-thin layer of skin from the surface of ginger root instead of a knife. It flakes off easily and there’s no waste.

2. Before using fresh leafy herbs such as kaffir lime leaves, crumple the leaves in your hand first to release their essential oils for extra fragrance and flavor.

3. Refrigerate your onions and use the sharpest knife you have on hand, then you won’t cry as much.

To learn more about Pat and her book, visit her blog.

Topics: Q&A |

4 Responses to “Just like grandma used to make”

  1. Chris Says:
    October 14th, 2009 at 7:56 am

    Pat, I love your spirit and openness. Congratulations on your book! I have to say my own grandmother’s chicken soup was an elixir when I was little — so I have a boundless appreciation for grandmas. On a separate note, the cover of the book is delightful, although I almost fainted from hunger at the sight of those great soup dumplings.

  2. adeline yen mah Says:
    October 17th, 2009 at 3:11 pm

    October 17th, 2009.

    What a great idea to write a cookbook featuring Grandma’s favorite recipes. My Nai Nai was a great cook and enjoyed creating dishes for her grandchildren. I still remember the delicious Lion’s Head Soup she used to make: tender minced pork and nappa cabbage. Unforgettable!

  3. Tim Tan Says:
    October 30th, 2009 at 4:23 pm

    Hi there,

    Thanks for putting out a great blog for all to read. I’m hopping over to Paris soon and wonder if there’s any great (and reasonably cheap) places to eat nice Chinese food or Asian food (takeaways and street food are fine). Can’t be eating french food everyday and I hope to save a little… I’m staying near District 10 (close but not so close to the red light).

    Thanks in advance for your advice. And keep writing please.

  4. Ann Says:
    October 31st, 2009 at 11:41 am

    Chris — And I MADE that recipe for soup dumplings. Unfortunately, mine weren’t quite as beautiful. Nor, as delicious as Din Tai Feng. Maybe practice makes perfect?

    Mom — Yum, lion’s head sounds delicious. Did you know it can also be a stew and not a soup?

    Tim — Thanks for stopping by and for your very kind comment! I’m sorry I can’t recommend a perfect omelette in Paris. But for cheap, ethnic fare, check out these posts:

    For Indian food (great dosas!), Krishna Bhavan: http://annmah.net/2009/03/31/dining-out-and-about-paris-the-spice-is-right/

    For great Cantonese food, Likafo: http://annmah.net/2008/11/25/dining-out-and-about-chinese-in-paris/

    And some budget-friendly French options…

    For wonderful crêpes, Breizh Café:
    http://annmah.net/2009/05/26/dining-out-and-about-paris-crepes-at-breizh-cafe/

    And great tartines at La Cuisine de Bar:
    http://annmah.net/2009/03/03/dining-out-and-about-lunches-to-crunch/

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