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A year in a French market: A Chinese American in Paris
By Ann | March 4, 2009
When I’m in line at the market, I often wonder what the other customers are cooking from the produce they buy. I’m willing to bet I’m the only person in line who turns their swiss chard into a Sriracha-laced noodle stir-fry. Does the vegetable vendor know I’m eyeing her cauliflower and potatoes and thinking spicy aloo gobi? Possibly. Given my Asian features, it’s pretty safe to say she knows I’m not French.
Except, lately I’ve begun to notice that the French are a little more savvy about race and cultural identity than I initially gave them credit for. Like the other day, when I entered into a French conversation with an elderly man outside of Saint Sulpice church. He wanted me to go around to the main entrance, I just wanted to pop in to look at the church’s fascinating meridian line. I can only guess that my accent gave me away because the next words out of his mouth were, “Vous êtes americaine?”
“Oui,” I replied. I was pretty surprised — most people think I’m Japanese.
“Mais, vous êtes d’origine Chinoise?” You have a Chinese background.
“Oui.” Feeling more surprised, even faintly impressed.
“Oh, j’adore les femmes chinoises!” he exclaimed. And of course, being French, he then entered into a long soliloquy on the beauty and femininity of Chinese women.
Okay, surprise and admiration end.
Though he did let me use the secret side entrance to the church.
Anyway, given that I like to upend assumptions, it gives me perverse pleasure to cook innocent French vegetables in the most American way possible. And by American, I really mean any type of world cuisine, from Italian to Indian, quirky to classic. Such was the destiny for the rogue artichoke I bought yesterday, one of the first signs of spring to appear among the turnips and leeks.
Like skinning a cat, there aren’t many ways to cook an artichoke — I steamed it — but in the spirit of idiosyncracy, dipped its leaves into Caesar dressing, enjoying the contrast of bright lemony-ness, salty parmesany-ness and sweetish artichoke. Of course, this being France (where Caesar dressing, or indeed any kind of bottled vinaigrette, does not exist), I had to make my own. Full confession: I had some leftover in the fridge from last night.
I can think of few things more American than Caesar salad, a dish invented in Mexico that now appears in Italian restaurants across the United States. And while I’m sure my friend from Saint Sulpice would picture me eating my artichokes dipped in soy sauce, with chopsticks in my hair, I can assure you my combination is far more delicious.
Caesar dressing
1/2 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
1-2 anchovies, chopped
Salt
Black pepper
1/3 cup olive oil
1 egg
1/2 cup parmesan cheese
1 lemon
Whisk together the red wine vinegar, garlic, anchovies, salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Slowly add the olive oil, while whisking. Add the egg and whisk to combine, with the parmesan cheese. Juice the lemon over a strainer to catch the seeds and whisk into the dressing. Taste and adjust seasonings, adding more salt, pepper, lemon juice or parmesan cheese if necessary.
Topics: A year in a French market: Winter |
5 Responses to “A year in a French market: A Chinese American in Paris”
Comments
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March 4th, 2009 at 9:17 am
Full endorsement of the Caesar’s Salad. It was truly superb. Also: I recommend to all visitors a quick stop in to St. Sulpice. In addition to the meridian line, there are a couple of interesting paintings by Delacroix to the right after you enter. Outside the church is a leafy square, anchored by the Cafe de la Mairie. It is one of my favorite places on earth. Rumor has it Catherine Deneuve lives nearby!
March 6th, 2009 at 8:45 am
And of course, being French, he then entered into a long soliloquy on the beauty and femininity of Chinese women.
Actually, a soliloquy is when the character is alone on the stage, and is talking to himself (or the audience). You admirer gave a monologue.
March 6th, 2009 at 11:31 am
But, since I was on stage, but totally 100% tuning him out, doesn’t that mean it’s a soliloquy?
March 6th, 2009 at 4:30 pm
Hhmmm….I’ll ask Daniel Day-Lewis next time he’s in for a visa.
March 20th, 2009 at 7:50 am
Rest assured that in Paris you will never again hear–”你是中国人， 你的中文怎么说得不好？”
or … “你不是美国人，你是龙的传人”
argh!
I knew the French would give you the appreciation you needed!