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Wednesdays are for food
By Ann | October 23, 2008
Wednesdays are my favorite day to read the newspaper because, as American food/media-lovers know, it’s when the dining sections appear. Imagine my happiness, mes amis, when I discovered that the food sections also appear on Wednesdays in Paris!
So, what can food freaks discover at the kiosque this week? (Side note: I love the newsstand pictured above.) Here’s a small smattering of today’s news–
First off, VERY EXCITING, Le Figaroscope has a review of our neighborhood café, Le Tourne Bouchon!!! As this is our regular spot for a grand crème and a good gab, we couldn’t be happier for the owners. Their 11€ lunch draws a crowd daily, but most popular of all is their couscous (the owners hail from Tunisia), served Wednesday-Friday and Sunday (closed Saturday). Le Fig says: “The semolina is fine, the broth rich, the vegetables rustic, the small raisins welcome, the chick peas (a little cold) and the lamb meltingly tender.” My take: I found their couscous amazingly fluffy and light. The half-roast chicken was juicy, and the link of merguez an unexpected, welcome addition. Extremely copious, generous portions. (71, bd Raspail, 6ème, tel: 01 45 44 15 50)
Also from Le Figaroscope – if you’ve been wondering where to have lunch on a Sunday, here’s a round-up of their favorite spots. Two that looked intriguing:
–Firmin, le Barbier (20, rue de Monttessuy, 7ème, tel: 01 45 51 21 55). Le Fig says (paraphrased): Opened by a former surgeon, who gave up his career to start the bistro, the chalkboard menu features food with a real authenticity and wines chosen with care. Recommended: Delicious foie gras sauteed with asparagus, savory loin of lamb with small veggies, perfect apple tart.
Also, Les Délices du Shandong — Le Fig says: “A type of Chinese take-away/cafeteria specializing in hard-to-find Northern specialties, including spicy tripe salad, giant soup (?), sauteed pork in a vinegary sauce, house-made cabbage dumplings, everything comes with balls of hot bread. Surprising!” (88, bd l’Hôpital, 13ème, tel: 01 45 87 23 37)
Places on their list that I’ve eaten at:
–La Cagouille. Le Fig says: “Owner Gérard Allemandou is known for the care he takes with lesser-known, “non-noble” seafood like anchovies, céteaux (small fish related to sole), casserons (no idea what this is; so unknown it’s not in my dictionary — not even the French one), and mullet.” My take: Reliable for very good fish, rather expensive, a little out of the way, décor sports a maritime theme. (10, place Constatin-Brancusi, 14ème, tel: 01 43 22 09 01)
–Les Fables de la Fontaine. Le Fig says: “Probably the most successful Parisian fish restaurant (received a nod from Michelin) with dishes at the same time full of subtlety yet which respect the quality of the fish.” My take: Owned by Christian Constant, it’s fanciful, fun, quite expensive but worth it. (131, rue Saint-Dominique, 8ème, tel: 01 44 18 37 55)
–La Fontaine de Mars. Le Fig says: “Its antique tiles, old posters and retro furniture are as well-preserved as its legacy of “vintage” cuisine.” Recommended: the boudin with apples, cod with aïoli, duck à l’orange, floating islands and baba au rhum. My take: I loved the egg poached in red wine. But this place is always packed — and not with French people! (129, rue Saint-Dominique, 7ème, tel: 01 47 05 46 44)
Meanwhile, Le Monde has a long, slightly humdrum feature on the re-opening of a well-known restaurant in Lyons, La Mère Brazier. The celebrated kitchen, which opened its doors in 1921, will now by headed up by Mathieu Viannay, 40, an accomplished young chef.
Also in Le Monde, a recipe by the aforementioned Mathieu Viannay, for a pineapple/piña colada dessert. Looks complex!
Finally, an article from the NYT on this season’s new cookbooks. Of the tomes discussed, I’ll be reviewing Thomas Keller’s book on sous vide soon. But I won’t be cooking anything from it because I don’t have any sous vide equipment, which costs thousands of dollars.
P.S. Sorry this Wednesday post is on Thursday!
Topics: In the news |
2 Responses to “Wednesdays are for food”
Comments
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October 23rd, 2008 at 6:26 am
I just looked in three dictionaries and an encyclopedia for “casserons” — no luck. But a theory. “Casserons” is the first person plural future conjugation of “casser,” or “to break” (we will break). So could it have something to do with cracking open delicious crustacean claws? As for the Tourne Bouchon, it’s perfect for a breather when you are wandering the Left Bank. Not far at all from the Luxembourg Gardens, Au Bon Marche or the heavenly Place St. Sulpice.
October 24th, 2008 at 12:21 am
Is La Tourne Bouchon where we had cafe au lait and a latte last summer? That was one of the best coffees I had in Paris. Can’t wait to try their couscous.