Dining Out and About (Paris): Maria Luisa, pizzeria napoletana - Ann Mah | Ann Mah

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Dining Out and About (Paris): Maria Luisa, pizzeria napoletana

By Ann | September 16, 2008

I love French food as much as the next person (maybe more), but sometimes I hanker for a little diversity — after all, I am American and our national cuisine is… every cuisine. Of the many foods I crave (among them: sushi, enchiladas, cheeseburgers, fried rice, and falafel), excellent pizza can be the most difficult to find. Enter Maria Luisa, pizzeria Napoletana, in the 10ème.

Tucked behind the Canal St. Martin — a newishly hip quartier of Paris — this tiny slice of a restaurant is, appropriately, pie-shaped. Seating is a bit mysterious (they seem to offer two seatings, and none in between) but if you arrive at 8pm on the dot, you are pretty much guaranteed a table. If not, you can cool your heels at the café across the street (it’s the café equivalent of a dive bar).

You could start with some antipasti (photo above, 9€50), maybe some salumi, or brine-cured olives, or an arugula salad.

There’s also solid (but not extraordinary) bruschetta (photo above, 9€), which is very good for sharing. Pictured above are (from left to right) marinated artichokes, mozzarella and tomato, and parma ham, but I suspect they change at the chef’s whim. The caprese salad was unremarkable, skippable.

But pizza is the star here, and it’s huge, so our best counsel is to proceed modestly. And oh, that pizza! It’s cooked in a wood-burning oven until the edges are crisp and ever-so-slightly singed. I liked the pizza rucola (12€), a white pizza baked with cheese and cherry tomatoes and then covered with fresh bitter leaves. And I loved the pizza margherita (10€), the crust a marvel of crunch and chew, with the very center of the pie a melty blend of cheese and sauce. CK can’t stop ordering the pizza diavola (photo top, 13€), devilish indeed with its shavings of spicy pepperoni.

I’ve become a recent convert to the calzone napoletana (photo above), stuffed with spinach, ricotta cheese, mozzarella, and spicy pepperoni, at once creamy, cheesy and piquant.

There’s always a pizza du jour (photo above), on this day a contrast in tastes and textures, topped with cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, cheese and parma ham.

Maria Luisa’s wine list is heavily Italian and not terribly note-worthy. We’ve washed our pizza down with a nice, crisp, light bottle of Orvietto (19€) and an unremarkable Chianti.

As for dessert — are you kidding? After all that pizza, we’ve never had room for dessert.

Maria Luisa
2 rue Marie et Louise
Paris 75010
01 44 84 04 01

Topics: Dining Out and About | 4 Comments »

4 Responses to “Dining Out and About (Paris): Maria Luisa, pizzeria napoletana”

  1. CK Says:
    September 19th, 2008 at 1:06 pm

    I used to give English lessons to the Saada sisters (age 9 and 6) in this neighborhood 20+ years ago. It’s a fun place to visit. Try M and L for lunch (during the week) and then take a stroll along the nearby canal …

  2. Ann Says:
    June 27th, 2009 at 3:29 am

    UPDATED — now with new, non-blurry photos!

    Also, I tried the tiramisu della casa last night — it is very, very good — very authentic, with marscapone cheese, gentle coffee flavor and subtle bite of grappa. Recommended!

  3. 美味しいピザが食べたい « 海外な暮らしと「旅」in France & USA Says:
    August 16th, 2009 at 3:00 am

    [...] 写真参照: Ann Mahブログ(英語) [...]

  4. Five fat foodie days in Paris « The captious vegetarian Says:
    July 10th, 2010 at 2:11 pm

    [...] Maria Luisa. (Rue Marie et Louise) I am a pizza fanatic.  Whenever we go to a new city I have to find at least one pizzeria to try.  I’m invariably disappointed, but I continue the tradition nonetheless.  I read up on all the pizza places in Paris and picked Maria Luisa, mostly because the crust looked the best–thick and chewy with big air bubbles, not that crackery neapolitan excuse for a proper pizza crust.  The shop was small, airy, very cute, and full of families with toddlers.  The patrons seemed for the most part to be locals from the neighborhood.   Derek and I couldn’t agree on a pizza so we each got our own one (for about 13-14 euros each).  Derek got the pizza scamorza, and I got the pizza caprese.  The smoked mozzarella was delicious, but my pizza was a little disappointing.  I no longer remember what was disappointing, but I think the sauce did not have enough flavor.   The pizzas were quite large–we definitely could have shared just one.  We also ordered an insalata caprese, which was a mistake given all the cheese on our pizza.  They also served it with our pizza rather than as an appetizer, even though it took quite a long time for our pizzas to emerge from the kitchen.  For dessert we tried the panna cotta caramel.  It was tasty.  Main and app: B. [...]

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