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Dining Out and About: When in Rome…
By Ann | March 3, 2008
When I think of Italy, my mind drifts to… food. I have enjoyed some of the best meals of my life there (an al fresco lunch at La Frasca in Frascati (oops! wrong La Frasca! thanks to Jessica in Rome for the correction! actual address of the La Frasca of my dreams: via Matteotti, 34, 47011 Castrocaro Terme, Forli; tel: 0543 76 74 71) outside of Bologna, particularly stands out). I have also endured some of the worst meals of my life in Rome (specifically the scrambled egg mess of carbonara served at La Volte, Piazza Rondinini 47 — AVOID). Following, are a few of the places and foods I enjoyed on my recent visit.
In the New York vs. Chicago-style pizza wars, I definitely come down on the side of the thin crust. Luckily for me, Roman pizza is thin, thin, thin, crisp, slightly chewy and I love it, especially the pizza bianca (pictured top) from the popular Forno Antico at the Campo de’ Fiori. I wandered into this crowded bakery at around 2.30pm; as soon as I entered, they locked the door behind me. Everyone was waiting for something… so I decided to wait as well. I was rewarded 5 minutes later with pizza bianca, hot from the wood-burning oven, sprinkled with olive oil and a tiny bit of salt, with an amazing crisp yet chewy texture. Heaven, and only E0.78! They unlocked the door to let me out; as you can see from the photo above of the locked and shuttered shop, they take their siesta molto seriously.
I also enjoyed the pizza Margherita and pizza rossa (pictured above) at Il Gianfornaio (Ponte Milvio, 35), snipped to order by the slice, then folded in half like a sandwich. The crust was hyper-thin and amazingly crisp, the sauce was tangy and tomato-ey, while the mozzarella added a nice chewy texture, though a lot of it slid off as I ate it on the run.
I found the tiny sandwiches above from the bar/pasticceria, Mondi (Via Flaminia Vecchia 468/A) absolutely enchanting. They offer about eight different varieties. Of the two little sandwiches I sampled, one had sundried tomato, a creamy cheese and pine nuts; the other was stuffed with a zucchini blossom and salted anchovy (odd).
Mondi is also famous for its own gelati, particularly the chocolate-orange peel version (top row, third from left), which is very sophisticated, deeply chocolatey with tender bits of sugared orange peel (about E1.90 per cup). I also visited the legendary San Crispino (via della Panetteria, 42, reward yourself after the hellacious Fontana di Trevi), where I sampled their grapefruit sorbet, intensely citrus-y, tart, slightly bitter, with shavings of peel, very refreshing, also quite overpriced: E3.50 for a tiny cup.
For heartier fare, I enjoyed Enoteca Cul de Sac (Piazza Pasquino, 73) a crowded, cozy place lined with wine bottles. The menu features a large assortment of charcuterie and some Roman specialties. I enjoyed the polpettini in a white wine sauce, the meatballs rich with a meaty flavor, the sauce a light glaze, served with buttery mashed potatoes. Excellent wine list. Interestingly, as we left, we noticed all the food was heated via microwave — the place doesn’t have a kitchen, so all the dishes must be made off-site and reheated to order. This doesn’t seem to detract either locals or tourists. Down the street, Enoteca il Piccolo (via del Governo Vecchio, 74-75) is a nice spot for an aperitif.
No trip to Rome would be complete without lunch at Sora Margherita (Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 30). Located in the Jewish ghetto, it’s definitely been discovered by the guidebooks (and tourists, and probably Rick Steves… sigh). But it’s still a no-frills spot, with paper-covered tables and no menu, but a recitation of the daily specials. I had a carciofo alla guidia, a golden, fried artichoke, the leaves crisp like potato chips, the heart tender, soft and sweet. Then, fresh pasta (alas, not made in-house — we saw them with the boxes later) tossed with ricotta, pecorino cheese and black pepper, the pasta chewy yet tender, with a salty, peppery bite. Also, a salad of blood oranges, fennel and deep, black olives, simply dressed with sharp olive oil and a dusting of black pepper. My friend, S., had a torta, a sort of layered casserole with a layer of sauteed spinach (or some other leafy veg) on top and shredded fresh anchovies underneath (good, but a bit too fishy for me). With a bottle of water, two coffees, total for two: E40 (more expensive than I remember).
Finally, traditional cafes seemed few and far between, but Caffe della Pace (via della Pace, 5) has a charming old-world atmosphere that is perfect for sipping cappucino (only in the morning, please!) or, my new fave, blood orange juice!
Topics: Dining Out and About |
4 Responses to “Dining Out and About: When in Rome…”
Comments
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March 4th, 2008 at 1:05 pm
Reading that entry made me VERY hungry and Rome-sick. One question: Is blood orange juice seasonal? Is this the ideal time for blood oranges in the Mediterranean region?
March 4th, 2008 at 1:47 pm
La Frasca of Frascati is outside of Rome, not Bologna. Unless there is another one? Love it there too if we are talking of the same place.
March 4th, 2008 at 3:02 pm
Oops, Jessica, you are right!!! I was referencing the wrong La Frasca. The La Frasca I’ve been to is in Emilia Romagna (specifically: via Matteotti 34, Castrocaro Terme, Forli). I haven’t been to the one in Frascati (hope to go soon, though). Thanks for your post!
April 9th, 2008 at 12:20 pm
My absolute favorite restaurant in Rome is Sprito di Vino in Trastevere (www.spiritodivino.com). If you go back, you should definitely try it. It’s a family run business and the food is divine.